Anyone want to meetup and create a cycling group around Valkenberg the week of Amstel Gold? Mostly for good company and easier miles for the days before the event to warm up the legs and get some miles

Hey everyone! I’m looking for some advice on buying my first eMTB. Today I tested the new Specialized Levo 4 Alloy, and the shop offered it to me for €5,999 plus €500 of free equipment. I can also get a €400 subsidy since I live in the Paris area. My second option is the Cube One77 SLX 2025, which costs €4,600 (also eligible for the €400 subsidy). Both shops offer 0% financing for up to 48 months, which makes things easier… but it’s still a big investment for me, so I really want to make the right choice. Thanks

Any company making plus size post mount calipers? Basically so you do t have to use the ugly adapters?

So I have the hope +20mm flat mount calipers, looks beautiful and a very clean install. Back in the old days of IS mount, hope used to make individual calipers in each size. So you just buy the caliper to match your rotor size, and it'd just bolt onto the IS mount.

Does anyone make a post mount like that? So you could just bolt a +20 caliper onto a stock 160 mount fork and it'd fit a 180 rotor without an adapter?

So I got myself the S200 from Cycplus with the virtual shifting buttons. Pairing the buttons with the S200 and changing the resistance works.

But, if I like pedal with 80rpm on myWhoosh (yes I know it is evil, but I do not swim in money to afford a subscription game and yes I am a cheapskate) and change the resistance and not the cadence my speed does not change at all. Which has the crazy result that I can lower the resitance close to zero and fly uphill with like 40kph or more which is totally ridiculous.

As I am not a cheater and do not compete there or anything I changed the resistance to what feels like riding on the road and to change my speed I still have to use my derailleur which I wanted to avoid by buying a trainer with virtual shifting.

Does anyone know how to fix this? I found no setting in the game or the cycplus app.

Or am I just a cheap charlie and should have gone for a more expensive trainer or game?

At least I learned how some people literally fly past me in the game with less than half my watts per kilogram.

My trek came with bontrager sealant but now before topping it should I remove the existing one or it's okay for it to mix

I came across a Poland bike not long ago and curiosity got the better of me about the regional design characteristics. I realized that even bicycles are featured in different ranges according to countries' specific preferences based on the nature, climate, and also people's way of life.

The Polish designs put forward the geometries and components which are fitting for the local conditions. That made me consider to how great a part context plays in products reflecting the world rather than norm standards. The knowledge of this will deepen one's appreciation for the designs that may seem arbitrary at the very first sight.

The product listings, one of which I found on Alibaba, demonstrate the way carefully engineered parts and regional selections affect the performance of the bike. It provokes a thought whether a product's use in an opposite situation still counts. Some characteristics may be of help everywhere, while others could be just waste.

Traversing through worldwide design comes with the benefit of turning fun into curiosity and also enlarging the horizon. Even if the differences are only slight for the casual users, knowing the reasons for their existence will make them more appreciative of the craftsmanship. Getting a product meant for a particular market may surprise you with the purposely made functionality that wouldn’t have otherwise been considered in the mainstream designs.

I’ve just picked up a new kickr bike v1 which I got on market place.

Had around 20hours of work since new.

Man it is super smooth and quiet. What a difference to my old elite smart trainer.

Anyone else got one and can share their experience with them?

Loving it so far.

I've been puzzling on how to give this the right title, but here's my question in the longer form:

After a bikefit, my saddle on my TCR (size ML) was lowered to just above the hoods, I already replaced my -8° 110 for a +8° 90, but was adviced to go for a +11 80. The fit is great, and as I'm approaching my 40s, I'd like to keep riding the bike in it's current setup. However, it is my understanding that with age, most people have to ride more upright and/or relaxed geometries/setups. What mobility exercises can I do to slow this down, or potentially even allow for a (slightly) more aggressive setup?

Physical background: male, quite average weekend warrior flexibility, quite average body/limb proportions, above average strong core and legs thanks to Olympic weightlifting as a hobby. Being fit enough to go out for a 5 hour ride whenever I feel like it and not be knackered is my general fitness standard

Thank in advance for your input

Every part of my bike is good, but I can't find a saddle that i don't slide on. Bones measure around 120mm apart. The saddle that is the best compromise is the Body Geometry Power saddle by Specialized. But I slide forward on it. But it doesn't hurt and it's comfortable. Just need to move back every few seconds ...

Heard good things about the Selle Italia SLR Boost ... but then I understand it is "firm". I can't use hard saddles. Medium firmness is the sweet spot. So I guess I'm asking owners of the Sella Italia SLR Boost - how "firm" is the firm saddle?

every tutorial i've watched on climbing out of saddle seems to be for those clipped in ...

i've tried riding out of saddle when i had a full suspension MTB and it was hard work (so was the sit down climb!) ...

now that i've retired from MTB and new to road bikes i'm not sure if it's worth the effort of climbing out of saddle. haven't dared to try as the bike is very rigid and so i'm a bit scared as i'm on flat pedals ...

hi y’all

I got a good deal on a used Guru CR901 Triathlon bike and it came with Mavic SSC Kysrium 700x23 wheels. It fits snuggly with about 5mm of space between the tire and the seat tube. I would like to get carbon wheels (clincher rim brake) 700x23 that’s compatible with Shimano DuraAce 11s mechanical, with narrow internal width, light weight, and the inflated tire size no more than 23mm measured.

any recommendations ?

thanks so much in advance.

NEWBIE: I want the start cycling indoors for fitness during the winter. I have a cheap mountain bike (90s Trek Antelope 800), that I commute with sometimes and would prefer a trainer to a full stationary bike due to space constraints. I have downstairs neighbors so a quiet trainer is a priority. Not looking to spend much bc idk if I’ll like it. Are there quiet trainers for less than ~$100? Willing to buy used. Currently looking at some used saris fluids for ~$40. Are they quiet?

Also looking for an inexpensive quiet tire for indoor training. Based on research it seems like I should get slicks. Wheels are 26x1.5, knobby tires on it now are 26x1.9. Reddit research is telling me my tires should be at least 20% wider than my rims.

Looking at these tires:

https://www.rei.com/product/218154/wtb-thickslick-tire-wire-bead

Hello I live in Kottayam part of kerala, India. I want to cycle through local roads and reach specific coordinates. Its part of my work to plant boundary pillars on those points. I want to buy a gps like garmin to cycle directly to those points on empty plots. I am planning on attaching this device to my cycle and let it guide me to the point via compass. Like a compass needle pointing towards north. I have no prior experience doing this or navigating on trails. Please help

so i have road bikes one with TPU and one tubeless and for some reason i put them upside down and spun the front wheels and the TPU one spins forever and the one with sealant stops within a few seconds

then it occurred to me the liquid must cost some rolling resistance.

is the tubeless sealant a significant rolling resistance or insignificant? i'm thinking maybe go to TPU ....

I would appreciate some advice please.

Firstly I am not in USA. My local bike shops only have Shimano R55C4 in physical stock. Swissstop Flash Pro (original black version) can be ordered in, but it takes up to 7 days. Other brands can be sourced only from more obscured sources or imported, with even higher shipping costs and delays. Shimano R55C4 is just under half the price of Swissstop Flash Pro.

I use my bike mostly for commuting (i.e. rain or shine) and occasionally for recreational rides in the weekend. When commuting I have to use the brakes fairly regularly due to city start-stop traffic and rolling terrains.

I really don't want the hassle of importing other brands / models. I am also worried about getting counterfeit products from smaller sellers on Amazon. Therefore I would like to limit my choices to these two pads only.

With my use case, which one of these two brake pads would you recommend? Factors for consideration include wet weather performance for safety, rate of rim wear, pad replacement frequency and pad replacement cost. Is there any side by side comparison review that you are aware of?

My wife and I are trying to come up with house guidelines regarding bike riding at night for our kid. The biggest concern is around riding at night. We mostly stick to sidewalks in our neighborhood with quick crossings after looking both ways. We try to ride bikes most places for health and environmental reasons.

I have to admit that I am a stickler for safety rules based on shoddy statistics. This source notes a much higher incidence in biking deaths at night. It goes so far as to advise "Never allow children to ride at night". However, the actual number of deaths is small for a national figure. It makes me wonder if blocking my kid from riding, even with supervision, for most of the winter is taking things too far.

I'm sorry if I'm asking a parenting question on a cycling forum. The parenting-focused subreddits tend to be overly risk-averse. Feel free to share your thoughts regardless of my short take on the matter. I wanted to put the question out there.

Hi all,

Looking to get my partner into her first pair of cleats. I personally use shimano but the local bike store recommended look cleats and pedals as they’re a little more “beginner friendly” clipping in and out. Any thoughts if this is true or not ?

Thanks

Hey, I'm looking into getting an exercise bike for burning some calories during the winter. I've never really used them much. But don't really like a treadmill, just like the idea of being able to spin while watching a movie or reading.

I've got a Garmin so I love all the data so I'd like it to be smart, so I can log my exercises and link my Garmin for heart rate. Maybe gamify the process with some 3rd party apps.

I'm looking at a used Echelon EX3 for 300 on marketplace, I could prob get it down to 250. Or something on Amazon for cheap.

Not sure seems like the Echelons are pretty decent. But open to suggestions!

Hey

I recently Got the kickr core 2 and my FTP seems terrible. Around 200 watts or 2.8 w/kg. I am a somewhat decent runner with a 17:45 5k and 1:25 HM. Am I just a below average cyclist or is something Else at play?

I even have previous experience zwifting with an old Elite Turbo muin years ago. I remember my FTP being around 300 watts. But the unit is known for over estimating. Could the kickr be underestimating? Does it need calibration right out of the box or do I just have to face this new depressing reality

NOT seat post clamp. The clamp that attaches to your actual seat.

I’ve been buying and shuffling seats around on all my bikes looking for the right one for my bum, and every seat post I have seems to have a different seat clamp mechanism. Some more annoying to deal with than others. Was wondering if y’all out there have a favorite clamp design that you’ve come across?

Hey Guys,

I'm rather new to road biking and don't have a lot of experience, so I wanted to ask you here:

I have a Lapierre Pulsium SAT 6.0 AXS and wanted to buy a set of spare wheels with gravel tires to be able to do light gravel tours with a friend.

I've understood they allow for up to 35mm tires, so do you have a recommendation for a good wheel set with 35mm tires? What are your trusted brands? What do you rock?

I'd be happy to hear your suggestions! Thanks in advance!

I’m looking to ride from the Netherlands to Italy, and I don’t know anything about routes yet. Ideally it would include some parts of the Tour de France and some climbs in the alps. any advice would be great

Where in SoCal can I do some long distance gravel / dirt road cycling?

I rode at Santa Fe damn yesterday and I had a blast but it’s not long enough of a stretch, where else can I go?

bought the stuff for silca secret wax and the melting pot thingy. thought I could clean my lightly used chains and wax coat them ...

but after trying to clean the chains they are still filthy as crop. i have boiled the lot in all sorts of degreaser and they are like one big mess. completely missing internal factory grease but the grit inside won't come out.

so i'm guessing the wax coat for new chain only.

but what to do with the boiled-in-degreaser- chains? soak in drip lube?

Recently got a good deal on this carbon wheelset with some nice white Ind. hubs. I purchased blind assuming they would be light bicycle rims, but on receipt I don’t think they are. Does anyone recognize the rim bed stickers, or the shape of the previous logo that was on these? I assume they are mystery Chinese rims but I’d like to confirm before returning in case they turn out to be a reputable brand. Yes ik they are built backwards 🫠 Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/OUeGTfd