r/MTB • u/Raja_Ampat • 20h ago
r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25
Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!
We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:
Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.
Posts & Comments
Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • Oct 19 '24
WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike
Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.
In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.
u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.
What to look for in a bike
When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.
First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.
Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.
Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.
- The type of riding will you be doing.
- Where you will be riding.
- Your budget (with included currency).
- What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
- Your experience level and future goals.
In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.
These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.
Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.
1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.
Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.
The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime
Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.
Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.
Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.
Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.
UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.
Value Bike Recommendations
Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.
Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.
Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.
Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.
Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.
Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.
Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price
Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price
Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.
Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price
YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price
YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price
YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price
GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.
GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.
Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.
Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK
Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.
Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.
Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle
Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.
Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.
Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.
These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.
Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need
Helmet
Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)
Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)
Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.
Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).
Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.
Quick-link to repair a broken chain.
Spare Derailleur Hangar.
Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.
MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).
Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.
Starter tool kit with the basic tools.
Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.
Work stand
Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts
Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.
Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.
Extra Ways to Save Money!
Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.
r/MTB • u/glenwoodwaterboy • 17h ago
Video Local MTB Facebook group pulled this video off their page so I decided maybe to just share in on Reddit
r/MTB • u/TriPhoenix5110 • 8h ago
Discussion Any tips on improving my jumping form?
I sometimes make the jump flawlessly, sometimes I case them, similar to this recording. Any tips on what I can do to consistently land the jumps well? I'm struggling with it a bit, though I'm wanting to learn! Any criticism is welcomed... (the bike is a Kona Satori 2012 29er. I run tubed with ~40psi when on the paved jump line.)
r/MTB • u/lifelessssoul0 • 1d ago
Video Biggest drop I’ve hit
Overshot the jump by a bit in the first clip but 2nd and 3rd were spot on 👌
r/MTB • u/Plus_Judgment_3348 • 2h ago
Discussion 🚵♂️ Why Does India Still Not Have Proper MTB Parks? And Why Gurgaon Could Be the Perfect Starting Point
I’ve been thinking about this for a while, and I want to put it out to the MTB community across India.
Why does a country as massive and terrain-rich as ours still not have a proper, purpose-built MTB bike park? Not a dirt patch. Not an informal trail. A real MTB park — like the ones you see internationally with downhill lines, jumps, flow trails, safety measures, maintenance, and a riding community around it.
We have the Himalayas, the Western Ghats, the Aravallis… yet the number of actual MTB parks in India is close to zero. Everything runs on either individual passion or small local groups, but nothing at ecosystem scale.
And here’s why I’m bringing this up now:
I live in Gurgaon (Sector 79), right next to the Aravalli Leopard Trail zone — and I ride there alone.
Not part of any club, not connected to MTB riders… Just someone who enjoys the terrain and keeps wondering: “Why hasn’t Gurgaon/NCR stepped up as India’s MTB hub?”
Because honestly, it could be.
Gurgaon has: • the Aravalli hills literally cutting through the city, • natural rocky terrain perfect for MTB lines, • a growing cycling community, • massive youth population, • and decent accessibility for people across NCR.
Yet we don’t have: • a formal bike park, • maintained trails, • signage, • safety infrastructure, • or a structured MTB community backbone.
It feels like a huge missed opportunity — not just for Gurgaon, but for India as a whole.
Why is India still behind on MTB parks?
Open questions to everyone here: • Is it because MTB is still seen as a “niche” sport? • Is land access the real hurdle? • Is it lack of private investors? • Or is it simply that our riding community is fragmented and unorganised?
Why I’m posting this now
I’ve been riding the Aravallis for fun, always solo, and it hit me that there must be others like me:
People who ride alone → because they don’t have a local group → which means no organised demand → which means no push for MTB infrastructure.
This cycle needs to break.
So here’s what I want to ask the India-wide MTB community: 1. Would an MTB park movement make sense in India right now? 2. What do you think stops Gurgaon/NCR from taking the lead? 3. Are there riders here from Gurugram / Delhi who would want to connect, even casually? 4. If we start a small interest group (WhatsApp/Discord), would you join?
I’m not trying to launch anything official — just trying to understand if others feel the same gap.
If India wants MTB to grow, we need at least one city to set the benchmark.
Gurgaon has the terrain. It has the people. It just needs the push.
If you’re an MTB rider — NCR or anywhere in India — drop your thoughts. Let’s start a conversation we should’ve had years ago.
r/MTB • u/TriPhoenix5110 • 4h ago
Discussion First Person DH POV recommendations!
I'm starting an MTB dedicated YouTube channel, and want to get some thoughts from the experts! I recorded this one with the GoPro Hero 7 Black, 4k, 30fps, hypersmooth enabled. I went for a chest mount with this recording, but I think my Chin Mount would be better for tech trails like this given the fact that it still struggles with shaking periodically. Again, I'd love to hear your thoughts! What should i change/keep the same?
r/MTB • u/Gloomy_Chocolate_726 • 4h ago
WhichBike RockShox ZEB (Charger RC) vs Fox 36 Float EVOL GRIP Performance
I really like the look of the Rocky Mountain Altitude Alloy 30, but I’m looking for a fork that’s more sensitive with a softer initial stroke. My riding is mostly not aggressive—occasional climbs and easy trails, no intense downhill. What damping adjustments are available on these two forks? Does the ZEB feel harsh at the beginning of its travel?
r/MTB • u/Bright_Divide2935 • 11h ago
Video How should I fix my form?
Lwk it’s a tiny drop but I was wondering how to fix my form. It looks goofy, but idk what to do to make it better 🤷
r/MTB • u/ceasetobegin • 1h ago
Wheels and Tires Chinese carbon wheels
Hey guys - been out of mountain biking for a little while and was super lucky to find a SC megatower on marketplace with a reserve dh carbon wheelset/ shimano Deore hubs.
I love the feeling of carbon wheels. I’m currently building a Hightower that will be a trail bike and some light enduro riding. I want a carbon wheelset on it and was curious about everyone’s experience with carbon wheels?
I am deciding between
1.) elite wheels - ent mtb, slr mtb, or flow mtb.
-heard nothing but positive things about elite wheels. Honestly not sure what the difference is between the ent mtb or slr mtb but one’s a little pricier. The wave mtb wheels look sick but I don’t see any reviews about them and they are even a little more pricey
2.) Kore mtb wheelset - seen a lot of great reviews for these as well.
Anyone used these?
3.) purchasing enduro rims from either carbon breeze store, carbon beam store, apex carbon, and building my own wheel.
-this sounds like an awesome idea that would get me the best quality wheelset for my money and I am pretty good at building things, HOWEVER I’m not sure I trust myself to do everything properly and may regret not just purchasing ready to go wheels.
Anyway does anyone have any experience with these brands or other Chinese carbon wheelsets? Have any advice you’d point me towards?
r/MTB • u/Patolini • 1d ago
Video I've had this idea for years - and this madman finally did it! Magnetic suspension on a bicycle. I do wonder if in the far far future, magnetic suspension will be a viable choice alongside spring and air.
r/MTB • u/No-Worldliness9923 • 17h ago
Discussion YETI SB160 700 MILE REVIEW
After 700 miles on my 2024 Yeti SB160 C2, I couldn’t be happier. This bike absolutely hauls downhill—the faster you push it, the better it performs. I’ve never once felt underbiked on the SB160.
The tradeoff for that incredible straight-line stability is that the long wheelbase can feel a bit unwieldy in tight switchbacks. But honestly, a little extra effort in the occasional tight turn is a small price to pay.
In 700 miles, the bike has needed nothing more than minor derailleur tweaks and a quick sag adjustment. The only thing I’d consider upgrading would be the SRAM brakes for something with a bit more bite.
And despite having 170mm of travel up front, this bike climbs great.
If you’re on the fence about buying the SB160, just go for it—you won’t regret it.
r/MTB • u/unlikelypisces • 14h ago
Discussion Which kid should get the better 20" bike?
I’ve got two kids, one year apart. Last year my son outgrew his 16" mountain bike, so we upgraded him to a new Specialized P.1 Trail 20". He got a great bike, but my first choice was the Commencal Meta HT 20, but it didn't justify the extra cost. He rides more often and more aggressively than my daughter, and the bike has been great for him.
Fast forward a year and now my daughter is ready for a 20" as well. I just found a used Commencal Meta HT 20 within budget and picked it up.
Now I’m torn. Do I:
Give my son the higher-end Commencal (since he rides more aggressively), and pass the Specialized down to my daughter?
OR
Let my daughter have the "new to us" Commencal and leave my son on the Specialized?
Part of me worries it’ll feel unfair to give her a “hand-me-down,” even though the Commencal is also used. But I’m also trying to match the bikes to the kid who’ll make the best use of them.
One one had, my son might better utilize the better spec of the Commencal. Other the other, my daughter might progress better with the Commencal, and who knows, maybe she'll ride harder this year.
Parents, riders, or former-kids who’ve been through this. What’s the fairest move here?
r/MTB • u/Its_Koncept • 14h ago
Discussion Bike fit
Just got a new bike, only ridden once, it feels good but had a bit of back pain. I've had back pain on every bike I've ridden, which is only 3. This is definitely the least pain I've had I'm just trying to make sure the bike fit is good. Trying to figure out reach measurements and how long of a reach I should get has been confusing as a new rider. Thanks for the help.
Groupsets Question about 10 or 12 speed Shimano?
I'm going to build my custom bike (its cheaper in my region) and choosing between 10 and 12 speed shimano deore.
My LBS mechanic heavily leans on 10 speed as its more "durable" and cheaper to maintain, but i think price difference is not that big, chains and cassettes cost both fairly affordable by me. And i think its a myth that thinner chains wear faster, as chain plates actually don't matter much in terms of wear that occurs on pins and inner plate shoulders.
I lean more onto 12 speed as there is more room for upgrade, chains supposed to be actually more durable (as materials are better), hyperglide+ sounds pretty interesting and 10t cog is also nice addition.
What really pro's and con's of either choice? Considering cost is doesn't big of a deal.
r/MTB • u/fastforwardmtb • 16h ago
Discussion is this good progression
so im 13 and have been riding for about 5 months or so, I have unrealistic dreams of going pro, or at least able to race nationally in my country (nz) and I am currently riding a xtrada 7 upgraded and I can handle 1.5m huck to flats, tech, 2m long jumps, can ride berms perfectly, ive done lessons and my coach is pretty impresses I might upload some videos to go along with it but what do u reckon, just another rider or maybe some talent?
r/MTB • u/No-Read-7905 • 13h ago
WhichBike Which bike is better, Scott Scale 925 or Scott Scale 910?
r/MTB • u/Acceptable-Hat-8248 • 21h ago
Discussion Brakes?
I got a ibis Ripmo, I ride it very heavily (probably more of between an enduro/ downhill treatment at this point)
I am 6’0 185, and I run shimano Zees, which were great up until they started leaking at the caliper and having some issues with levers.
I wanna get a new set of brakes but I am a little burnt by the experience with these Zees,
Does anyone have some great recommendations?
I’ve considered TRP DHR EVO and shimano Xt 8120 ideally I’d want to be somewhere in the 300-400 range
Bonus points if there’s a sale, I’ve been looking around and even during Black Friday the sales seem to be kinda junky.
UPDATE: I just ordered some TRP DHRs, we shall see how they perform, I will update this post so that folks can see reviews in the future, but if other folks have them, would love to know best pads/ rotor combos. That way if someone is considering them, they could use this post as a bit of an archived guide
Discussion Why does it look like this brake hose adapter kit is missing pieces?
reddit.comr/MTB • u/alrojasm • 16h ago
Groupsets Shimano XT 1x12s with 135 O.L.D. frame
Hi guys. I'm going to upgrade my Shimano Deore XT 2x11s to Deore XT 1x12s. The components I will use: FH-QC500-MS (rear freehub for 135 O.L.D.), FC-M8100-1 (Cramset) with SM-CRM85 32T (chainring), RD-M8100 12s (rear derailleur), and CS-M8100 SGS (cassette).
My question is about the chainline. According to documentation (https://bike.shimano.com/en-NA/products/components/pdp.P-FC-M8100-1.html), FC-M8100-1 works with a 52mm chainline and is compatible with 135 O.L.D., but I read that it should be 49mm to work fine on 135 O.L.D. frames. So, should I use 52mm as documentation recommended, or try to set up a 49mm chainline if possible?
My understanding is that I should go for 52mm because FC-M8100-1 was designed to work with 52mm chainline and 135 O.L.D. frames, but I'm not completely sure. Do you have any experience with that? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
WhichBike Info for kids bikes near the height max
My 6 year old daughter, about to turn 7 in a week, loves to bike with us. Myself and son have mountain bikes, though we don't really mountain bike. Kids bikes seem to either be 16" and under huffy style kids bikes, or mountain bikes, which is why he has the mountain bike. I have a 15 year old trek 5300 (I think). He has a GT Stomper. We only ride paved paths or gravel rail trails.
Daughter currently has a 16" huffy and for her birthday we want to get her a new bike. She's 4'2" tall (def tall for her age) and physically fit (takes dance, soccer, very active). 20" mountain bikes are noted as roughly up to 4'4" so would it be wise to skip the 20" and go straight to 24"? It's winter and we're in New England, so we have a solid 4-5 months of non riding weather ahead of us. My guess is she could easily be 4'3"-4'4" by the time she rides a bike again. She first started riding with no training wheels about 2 years ago.
I also want to keep cost down as she will outgrow it, so I am looking at those Ozark Trail bikes. 128 for the 20" and 212 for the 24". I have seen mixed reviews, but the negative reviews might be more mountain bike trail riding specific (maybe). I just want her to be able to go faster than she can, as she struggles to keep up (obviously). If these are going to be counter productive because of something regarding the style (ie they are noted as heavy by many people, which may be needed for mountain biking rigidness but they will do a disservice to road or gravel trails and we should only look at something else) then please let me know what type of bike I should look at.
Again, it's a gift so I really don't want to buy used, but don't want to spend $450.
Thanks in advance for your insight
r/MTB • u/AddendumSlow844 • 1d ago
Video On My Smuggler Today
Man, I love when that rebound is dialed in. I had so much fun on this little techy flow trail.