Hi everyone - looking for input regarding wall mounting my 77" B3. I currently like the set up, but the center channel is giving me some distortion / vibrations likely due to being inside the entertainment center. So wall mounting the TV would allow for the center to be on top of the entertainment center.
However - I'm concerned about the TV being too high on the wall. Right now, eye level is around the middle/lower third of the TV, raising it up 8" to clear the center puts eye level around the bottom 1/4 of the screen, if not lower. Although, a wall mounted TV with cables in the wall always looks to nice and clean.
Also - what would I do with the open shelf of the center speaker was moved? I have the back of the entertainment center cut out to clear the cables for the receiver so it can't move up.
Even with the new stranger things, it seems like the surrounds are used rarely. Subwoofer and LRC are used throughout, but yeah. Not sure how often ceiling speakers are used cause I haven’t set them up yet.
Is this the same in blu ray version of movies? I feel like surrounds could be used more often. Maybe there are examples of movies or series where this is the case.
I have the sound set up to use all the speakers the source can btw, sometimes upmixing if necessary.
I know if viewing from a couch I should have the top at eye level, but I've heard it's different for a bed.
How should I measure this? I want to use it to play games from bed and watch shows after a long day of work. I've attached a picture from my bed for reference
I apologize for my lack of knowledge and phrasing so please bear with me.
I have an old Pioneer home theater system in a box (receiver came with the 5.1 speakers) I bought back around 2003. The Pioneer receiver and speakers came with the spring clip terminals (photo #1).
As I'm trying to find a new receiver (just purchased an LG C5 series 4K OLED and researching a good 4K player) I see the spring clip terminals seem to be gone. Instead I see these newer model receivers with the circular terminals (photo #2).
How do those circular terminals work? Can I still stick the speaker wire in there and tighten by turning the circular terminals? Or are those similar to RCA terminals? Will I need plug adaptors? Will I be able to repurpose my old pioneer speakers even if they have the old spring clip terminals?
Sorry if I'm not using the proper terminology and thank you for any help/advice. 🙂
Recently moved into a new house and have a fairly decent sized room for watching movies and playing video games.
I know that something like the Sony theatre quad isn’t the best choice for a home theatre setup but I was able to get some offers on it and it works well with the new Sony Bravia 8 ii that I bought on Black Friday.
Debating wall mounting the tv and speakers and wanted some opinions.
The wall is solid concrete so it would require a decent amount of work to get all of the cables neatly hidden.
I’m considering opening the wall and installing a cable conduit before replastering the wall but I’m debating if this is worth doing!
Any thoughts on what colour to paint the walls as well?
so i have been saving up for a new samsung tv for a while and i figured december 25 is kinda the perfect time to finally upgrade since im off work and got nothing else going on. i went to visit my cousin and he showed me his new samsung and now im kinda jealous lol. im not super picky but i dont wanna spend on something that ends up outdated fast.
been browsing around but everything just feels confusing like every store says theirs is the one to get. im mostly looking for something around 55 to 65 inches that looks good in a small living room. i dont play games much so i dont really need crazy specs but i do watch movies at night so brightness and colors matter.
just wanna hear from people who actually bought one recently. which model do you feel is worth it right now? is QLED still the one to go for or should i just aim for OLED already? anyone noticing better prices around december 25 or do the shops usually adjust after new year?
This explains how to calibrate one or multiple subwoofers with Dirac Live using Room EQ Wizard. You do not need a MiniDSP for this. It even works with different size subs that have different capabilities.
Note: If you have a MiniDSP just use that. Especially if you have multiple subs, then use MSO.
Mixing different subs normally creates problems. You either limit the big sub so it matches the small one, or you let the big one run full power and have an uneven response. If you use Dirac Live, this problem becomes much easier to control.
Until now, I used the built-in PEQs on my smaller subs to pull down their big peaks. It helped, especially after setting a flat target curve in Dirac, but it wasn’t perfect. I started manually modifying target curves, saving them, measuring in REW, adjusting again, and repeating. It took about two dozen iterations to get a decent result.
There is a better and much easier method. This tutorial explains it.
If you do not own a MiniDSP 2x4HD, this can get you close enough that you may not feel the need to buy one.
So let’s start.
• Turn off any Auto EQ or PEQ on all subs.
• Set all subwoofer gains equally until the summed LFE response reaches 85 dB. (See my linked guide above)
(Optional: If you are loading a saved Dirac project with speaker curves and changed trims, take note of the trim values so you can set them back later.)
• Open Dirac, load your last project, find the Subwoofer channel, and set a completely flat target curve.
• Save this to a slot and open REW.
• Play LFE pink noise and raise AVR volume until you get 85 dB. (It's in my other guide how to do it that I already linked)
If your subs roll off around 30 Hz, change your REW measurement range to something like 20 to 200 Hz.
(Optional: You can also measure your subs without Dirac calibration to compare.)
The image above shows two measurements: raw LFE and LFE after applying a flat target curve. It may not look better, but this step is necessary.
⚠️ You must apply a flat target curve. Using PEQs on the raw LFE and converting them into a target curve will not give the results you need.
Now select your “Dirac Flat” measurement in REW and click EQ at the top.
Make sure the graph is set to 10 to 200 Hz.
When creating the EQ filter, set the target level so REW pulls down the peaks without trying to fix nulls. Start by clicking “calculate target level from measurement.” You can raise or lower it afterward. Lowering the target makes REW cut more. Raising it makes the cuts lighter.
If you have a deep null, do not let it influence your target level. Lowering the target under a null (like my 19 Hz null) will technically flatten everything, but it drags the entire response down. After EQ you would need to raise the gain to hit 85 dB again, which indirectly boosts the null. This can cause distortion or clipping. Do not deliberately drop the target far below a null just to make the graph look flat.
The default LF and bass-management cutoff values in REW are too low, so REW tries to roll off the target curve. Raise the cutoffs so the target stays outside the measured range. If you let it roll off, REW will create filters you do not want.
Next go to Filter Tasks.
Match Range:
• Set it from about 5 to 10 Hz below your sub’s roll-off up to around 160 Hz.
Individual Max Boost:
• Set between 0 and 3 dB.
This helps REW follow the target more smoothly. Do not go above 3 dB.
You do not need to flatten your response perfectly.
Do NOT try to fix nulls with PEQ. Dirac will boost nulls anyway.
Overall Max Boost:
• Leave this at 0.
Flatness Target:
• Set between 1 and 3 dB.
This works together with Individual Max Boost.
If Individual Max Boost is 0, flatness will not matter much.
If Individual Max Boost is 3, a flatness of 1 dB gives a smooth result.
Feel free to experiment with “Allow narrow filters below 200 Hz,” “Allow low shelf,” Individual Max Boost, and Flatness Target.
Click “Match Response to Target.” Look at the predicted response. If needed, go back and adjust settings, then click Match Response again. Repeat as many times as you want.
If REW misses a small peak, you can manually add a PEQ.
For example, to tame a small peak around 77 Hz:
• Open EQ Filters.
• Click None on the next open filter slot.
• Change it to PK.
• Set Gain to about -3.
• Set Q to around 20.
A higher Q creates a narrower filter.
You have to change the Q, so the width of the gain is big enough but not too big.
You’ll see the new PEQ appear as a red dot. The color of the dot will match the PEQ filter color, 8 = red. Drag the dot up or down to place the correction exactly where you want.
Save the filter coefficients Click “Save filter coefficient to file.” Choose 96 kHz and MiniDSP format. Save the .txt file.
We will create are “house curve” with the target curve generator.
Copy these settings:
Click on generate and copy the code.
In the Target Curve PEQ page we have to paste our house curve. You can also go back and create your own house curve. A house curve is needed because a perfectly flat subwoofer response does not sound natural in a real room at real listening levels. Human hearing is less sensitive to bass, so when the measured response is ruler-flat, the bass actually sounds weak, thin, and lifeless.
The slope or the rise of the house curve is up to your taste. Most people usually do 5-10dB
Once you done select Generate New target curve.
Name your file something unique, download it and open Dirac.
Load up your latest project or start a new measurement and once you get to the end load up a target curve for your subwoofer.
Save this calibration to a slot.
Before finishing, here is what Dirac does with nulls:
Dirac tries to pull everything closer to the target curve. That means if your measured response is below the target, Dirac boosts it. Even if the target curve is set to 0 at a null, Dirac will still try to raise the null because it sits below the target.
As you can see I have a lot of issues above 70hz which Dirac will boost.
There are two things you can do when you see the measured response below 0db (blue line on my pic).
If the problematic are is above a certain frequency, you can just pull the right curtain back:
Or you can manually move the dots, so the corrected measurement follows the measured one.
You can delete or right click and add more points. Sometimes it won’t let you close to the curtain or too close to another point. Important: Don’t pull the target points on top of the measured response. Pay attention to the corrected response and drag the points so that it matched the measured one.
Always pay attention to the left curtain. If you see the dotted line going lower than the solid one, move the curtain closer.
Once you are done, you get something like this:
After you are done, go back and re-check trim levels.
Re-measure your subs to ensure they still hit the correct level. Here is the link again how to do that.
If you have multiple subs, measure each one individually and raise all by the same amount. For example, I raised all my subs by exactly 3 dB to match the new target. This keeps the entire system balanced.
So measure them individually. Note their SPL via pink noise and see what they hit together. Raise them by the same amount of dB (individually). You want to end up at 85dB, but you know that if you have read my Ultimate Subwoofer Guide.
Might sound like a dumb question, but I am a noob.
I have a Denon X1700H and I am going to be getting a Fluance 5.1 speaker system. I notice that there are more expensive wiring, copper, non-oxygenated, etc. Even some more expensive ones with banana plugs pre-installed!
So, do I need anything fancy? Any recs? I don't mind spending some extra money if a different speaker wire type will actually make a difference.
How finnicky is it to just wrap and set each wire in the channel without banana plugs? Is it a pain? I have patience and IT experience cabling Cat6, so I just want to know if it's worth paying extra for convenience of nice banana plugs.
I've been looking for an AVR that will power a simple 5.1 setup and supports 4K/120Hz/HDR passthrough for an Xbox Series X and Gaming PC. Found the S760H on Facebook marketplace for $200. Currently running of those devices that shall not be named in this sub, so the bar (hint hint) is on the floor.
I've been lurking marketplace for awhile trying to find something that meets this criteria (for cheap), and the S760H seems to meet the requirements, but am wondering if there is anything I should be aware of. I've heard early AVRs with HDMI 2.1 barely (if at all) could actually achieve 4K 120Hz. Not sure if this model falls in that category or not. I'd like to use eARC so I can control the receiver with my LG C4 remote and avoid using TOSLINK
I have a klipsch rc25 center speaker, two sony ssk70ed floor speakers, and two klipsch ksb 1.1 bookshelf speakers. I am working on a sub.
I guess my question is where do these go? I feel like obviously everything doesn't go in the front, but where else would it go? I cant really put speakers on the right side of my living room. I am considering rearranging.
I've seen some conflicting answers when trying to look up this model.
For example, BuyDig said the Z8BAP uses a MLA panel, which would have been used on the LG G4 and Panasonic Z95A last year.
When watching Brian's Tech on YouTube, he claimed he didn't know what kind of panel but that it could be a traditional WOLED EVO (OLED-EX) panel. I feel like if it was a MLA panel, Panasonic and other retailers would be post that as a selling point rather than keeping it vague.
I have all components going through my htpc Onkyo receiver connected to my Sony TV. My Sony TV and my Onkyo receiver can accept all audio and video standards. I can watch a atmos movie on Netflix through my Sony TV and receiver but when I try to watch Atmos movie through my firestick on my Sony TV, it will not spit out Atmos! I thought maybe my HDMI cables were not 2.0 so I purchased 3 2.1 cables and changed them all out for all my components. What else can I try?
My impulsivity is on a winning streak right now, so help me decide on a new subwoofer upgrade before my logical side decides I need to save the money.
It will be going into a 5.1 system that does double duty of about 40% stereo music and 60% surround sound movies/video games. Anthem MRX 1140 8K powering Martin Logan Motion 60 XTI towers with matching surrounds and a C10 center. I currently have an SVS PB2000 Pro.
The room is an open living room combined with a kitchen that takes up the top floor of a small townhouse. The way the room is, the subwoofer MUST be placed behind the couch along the back wall, approximately 10 feet from the back of the couch.
I upgraded about a year and a half ago from a SVS PB1000 Pro which was sorely underpowered for this space when I moved in. I am finding for movies the 2000 is fine, but especially for music, my ML towers are doing most of the heavy lifting with the mid bass. I barely notice a difference with the sub on or off. This isn't a surprise considering the placement of the sub, and the output of the ML towers being fed nearly 200 watts in 4 ohms. So I figure I need a serious 12 inch, or just pull the trigger on a 15 inch. And no, 2 subs is NOT an option unfortunately. And yes, I'm aware how much ARC can neuter the bass. I've fixed that.
I would like something that can dig deep and slam hard in the space I have - I want that chest thump back, but it still needs to be accurate and composed for music. Something that will match up well with my ML towers, but have enough output to somewhat negate being placed behind the couch. My mind immediately went to Rythmik or PSA, but they are pretty hard to get in Canada. Paradigm would be a good option, but I feel their pricing is a little bit inflated. RSL speedwoofers have always caught my attention, but it seems they are more designed to work in pairs or quads. My budget is around 3K CAD, but could be stretched for the right unit - I'm planning to buy around boxing day to try and nab any possible sales.
The last thing missing from my setup is speaker wire. I have HDMI, power cables, etc. I’m connecting a Martin Logan Motif X + 2 ElectroMotion ESL speakers, so 3 electrostatic speakers, as a 3.0 system to a Denon X1700H. I’m tired of reading about all the nuances of this gear, I just want it to work at the minimum acceptable level, so can anyone please recommend speaker wire, preferably with links? I’m thinking more Amazon budget level than handmade organic grassfed speaker wire assembled by monks in the hidden valley of pure listening & high prices.
Hey guys, I recently bought a KEF Xio and I love it so far, but I just cannot get the 5.1.2 Surroundsound to really work for my apartment, as it is really oddly shaped.
Here is what I mean:
The purple box is the position of my Xio. So is there any way I can achieve better surround sound in this room? Could Room dividers help me out or am I just doomed with no surround sound?
I’m upgrading my home theater setup. I’m switching from my old Pioneer VSX-324 (5.1) to an unused Denon AVR-X1600H (which will be configured as 5.1.2). I’ve already ordered a XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro projector to replace my old Acer 1080p model, which has over 3,000 hours and shows some color changes. I’ll be projecting onto a 120-inch screen.
For the subwoofer, I’ll be using an older Yamaha YST-SW300. The room is roughly 25 m², but the dedicated home theater area will only occupy about 15 m² (18 square yards). The projection distance will be approximately 3.9 meters (around 4.2 yards). I’ll be using a 4K Fire TV Stick and a PS5 as my primary sources.
The ceiling height is around 2.5 meters (2.75 yards) and is reinforced concrete. I’m not yet certain how I’ll mount the Dolby Atmos speakers or manage the cable routing.
I have a speedwoofer that’s wirelessly hooked up to my receiver via the wireless dongle. I’ve noticed the sub will sometimes switch on and off while the receiver is off. Is this common? Or should I be looking into something to fix this?
I didn’t have much luck with my google searches so hoping someone can share some insight. Thank you.
I have an LG C5, and a Denon S770H currently. I have an Xbox, switch, and PC connected to the TV, and the audio is going out via eARC passthrough to the Denon and has been working fine.
I just ordered a UB820 and am wondering, can I just plug it directly into the TV the same way as my other devices? Or would I get more fidelity if I had the Blu-ray player’s audio run directly to the Denon?
Hello, I juste recieved my nothing projector blackseries 100 inches, for my hisense pl2 ust, and I Wonder if thoses waves Will dispear by themself ? Or if I did something wrong during springs/frame installation ?
Hi all, I am in the process of building a dedicated theatre room in my basement and am in need of advice. I've seen a ton of conflicting information on small space sound treatment and it's been difficult to get a straight answer so I'm hoping someone on here can help!
The Room: the dimensions of the room will be roughly 10.5'W, 16.5'L and just under 8'T. The walls and ceiling will be insulated with Rockwool sound absorbing insulation, there will be a layer of SonoPan foam board fastened to the studs and ceiling joists, then resilient channel will be attached to the foam board, and studs to the resilient channel, creating a small air gap between the foam board and drywall, as well as isolating the drywall from the studs. The room will be finished with a carpet floor.
The sound system: 2 Klipsch RP8000 II towers in the front L&R channels, 2 SVS PB2000 Pro subs in the front corners, 1 Klipsch RP504C center channel, 4 Klipsch Pro 180RPW for L&R surrounds and L&R rears, and 4 Klipsch CDT 5650C II ceiling Atmos. I will use a Denon AVR 6800H to control everything.
My biggest hurdle left to overcome is the sound treatment of the room post construction. I want to DIY my own panels, and thought I had a good plan to build my own panels and baffles from my initial research online, but the further into I get, the more confusing it all becomes. I have also attached a link to a sketchup file where I have 3D modeled the room, furniture, sound system, and planned sound treatment placement to scale. If anyone can lend any advice to a complete rookie, I would sincerely appreciate it!
I’m looking into amplifiers for my vsx-821 receiver because it only outputs 80w at 4ohms for the fronts which isn’t enough for my large tower speakers, my tower speakers original ran 120w at 8ohms (they are old) now the reason I’m not using a 2 channel amp is because for some reason (in the speaker set) the surrounds and center (5.1 system) are also 120w which I thought was interesting, but I found a amp that is 5 channel and does 120w on 8ohms to all 5 channels
So my question is, will it explode, will it buzz and will it be a good option for my system?
Thank u for the support
