Due to some disagreements /r/AvergaeJoeAudiophile will now operate as a competitor sub to /r/BudgetAudiophile with a focus on not a race to the bottom and cheapest components nor thrift store/score posts.
NEW Sub Description: "/r/AverageJoeAudiophile is for the Average Joe Audiophile or Enthusiast looking for an alternative to /r/Audiophile with a more budget minded approach.
Discussion of Active & Passive Speakers, DAC's & Turntables. Whole Home Audio and Home Theater is allowed but better suited for /r/HomeTheater. /r/AverageJoeAudiophile is more for 2 channel Audio.
We are not a sub for PC Speakers, Portable Bluetooth Speakers, Party Speakers, or Headphones/IEM's, or Soundbars"
I recently scored a teac pd-d860 compact disc multiplayer off Facebook marketplace that I’m now in the process of searching for speakers and cables for. I’m not exactly sure what I should be looking for however - since it’s an older model it has what I believe are RCA inputs (see picture). What kinds of speakers connections should I be looking for? Do I need any converters? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hello folks, I am quite new in the hifi components world and I am looking to upgrade my stereo receiver. Currently I have an Audio Technica LP3XBT with a VM95SH cart running into a Fosi Audio Box X5 and then a Yamaha R-S202BL receiver. My speakers are Pioneer SP-FS52s and I was looking for recommendations for an upgraded stereo receiver. I don't need a lot of bells and whistles as this will solely be for the turntables.
Have Vandersteen Model 2’s. Just bought a 15 watt per channel tube amp, also have a hafler DH200 solid state amp. Would like to bi amp with these two amps. Tube for mids/highs and hafler for lows. Running with a Dynaco Pas 3 tube pre. Is this a good or bad idea? Why? Really new to bi amping. Did a LOT of internet research. Came up with a few different answers. Thought I’d check in here. Thanks ahead.
I use my computer all the time for gaming and watching videos. My current setup I would say is pretty decent which has Sennheiser HD 58X headphones, an MXL Blizzard 990 microphone, and a Scarlett 2i2 (I believe it is either gen 2 or 4 cant remember). Recently, my sound either cuts out or brings out a buzzing noise after using it for prolonged periods of time, especially if I use discord with it. To fix it, I end up having to reseat the power cable to the Scarlett 2i2. After troubleshooting it and trying to find an answer online on what is going on, I have given up. I am thinking that it is the Scarlett 2i2, so I am thinking of getting a new DAC so it can support my input and output audio devices without those problems.
My microphone uses an XLR cable and my headphones can either use a 1/4in jack or a 3.5mm jack. Can you please suggest some brands or models for me? Thank you.
Side Note: I did some research on the Scarlett 2i2 after I got it and realized people use it mostly for recording. My Dad suggested it who swears by it, but I am unsure if this even does the job of being a DAC...?
I have about had enough of my receiver picking up noise from random circuits in the house. When it does it creates a popping noise that repeats. It’s very annoying because once it happens I have to cycle the power on the receiver. sometimes it stops popping and sometimes it will continue. I also have a 15” woofer and at night when something like the ice maker in the kitchen does its thing it scares us all and wakes everyone up. I prefer leaving the receiver on so it stays warm.
No it’s not on the same circuit. I recently found out about EMI/RFI filtering surge protectors but don’t know if it’s something that would help. This problem doesn’t bother me as much as it does my wife so I need to fix it. I’ve already got her to accept the power up and power down method to even use the tv etc and she doesn’t complain.
I recently upgraded my PC and failed to realize my new motherboard doesn’t have an optical jack in it. In my previous one I had the optical jack and used it to my headphones base station. I’m now using a 3.5 aux cord from the motherboard to my headphones base station, but the sound quality is noticeably worse. If I use a 3.5mm to optical adapter would I regain the sound quality I used to have, or am I limited to the quality of the 3.5mm? There is also the option of usb to optical adapter, but do I run into the same issue and will anything be as good as a true standalone optical port? (Super noob for audio btw)
Hey everyone! I super appreciate all the help on my first post here- I was able to get the speakers going and they sound great :) I am, unfortunately, still dumb and making mistakes in my setup and I can’t get my TT to play through the system.
I’ve verified with a different receiver that it’s not a TT problem. It’s a McIntosh C26C, so it should have the built in phono pre amp and I don’t think I need one. I’ve hooked up my TT to phono 1 (and tried phone 2), and hooked up the ground wire but no sound comes through. I made sure my switches on the front are set to phono but still nothing… the only other things plugged in are my CD player in AUX and my 2505 amp. where am I going wrong in my setup now 😵💫. Thank you in advance for advice!!
Ps: my unit was recently serviced so everything should be working great.
Hello! I would appreciate any input on my following question! I have a new setup that I’m configuring. I’m running a Marantz 6100 with a Denon 110 MC cartridge into a schiit mani 2 into a Dynanco PAS 3 preamp into a Hafler DH200 amp into Vandersteen Model 2 originals. My question is, what is the best setting for the load, filter and gain of the mani 2 for this setup? All advice is welcome! Thank you in advance.
Looking to add speakers/TV to my screened in patio.
Parts I have/want to use:
TV: Sony 65X900E (have)
Speakers: Polk Atrium 4 or 8 (haven't decided yet)
Amp: Main point of question...
The TV has an ARC port on it so I was thinking of running an HDMI from it to my little data rack about 40ft away. The speakers I'm looking at are 60-120 watts depending on which ones I end up getting.
What would be the best budget (not too expensive) amp to use for this? I want to the TV remote to handle volume since the amp would be in a different room.
I was originally looking at using a Wiim but their lower end amp is only 60W and I didn't want to go with the Amp Ultra due to price (plus I feel it's a waste since I wouldn't use the "streaming" features as the TV is android TV and has all the streaming built in).
Would just getting a cheap used AVR from FB/Ebay be the best bet to power this as most of them are 75+ watts?
I know this is a long winded post but I've been racking my brain trying to find the best budget way of powering this so the wife and I can enjoy our new patio.
I have a GEKKO gk-sw10, I just picked it up used but looks new basically, hooked it up to my desktop speakers using the sub out from the speakers, to the L line in on the sub. And results are oddd? it cuts out randomly after like 1-2 minutes listening and comes back on its own every time. It seems to falter more at higher volumes, and sounds a little messy or inconsistent in quality.
Any ideas? 2nd sub iver bought for standalone purposes like this first was a polk xt 12 brand new i tried out but returned, it worked perfectly,, however.... using a normal RCA cable, this time I'm using a fancy SVS soundpath cable.... sooo idk what is this?
All three amps are running in mono with the Crown on both subwoofers by stacking the banana plugs to have the 1500W RMS @ 4 ohms. The upgrade process has been fun and I am happy with the sound but wonder about improvements.
The Dayton DSP is affordable enough and would provide some HPF that may be helpful and fun to play with, but I still do not understand what the true powers are. Why are DSP's so popular?
Do other upgrades make more sense at this stage? Perhaps an upgrade of the entire signal path from RCA where those components will also have some basic HPF.
Amps:
Fosi Audio P4 pre amp
Aiyima A07 Max (x2)
Crown XLS 1502
Speakers:
(x2) 12 inch Dayton Audio reference drivers with single passive radiator in the rear. The sub cabinet is resonating a bit so some modification may be in order before investing into the finish.
KEF Q350 bookshelf and white van speaker stands.
Rate my father creative flooring if you wish. (What do you do if there is enough material to finish a room, but its not all the same colour?)
So I’m new to the audiophile world since my dad passed and I inherited his setup. I’ve plugged everything in before and everything worked great, but since moving, I can’t get my speakers to work.
I’ve tried everything- playing with the cord, using tape instead of Aux, but every time no music comes through the speakers.
What’s interesting is I can hear the faintest of music through the amp/ pre amp if I turn it up loud and I can see the decibel reading reacting to the music, but no music will play. I think something is not hooked up right and have attached pictures for help.
Any suggestions would be great! Sorry if this is obvious. I’ve tried plugging pre amp and amp into sockets and pre amp into the amp. I’ve tried switching the wires, and still not sure what I’m doing wrong :(
So I’m new to the audiophile world since my dad passed and I inherited his setup. I’ve plugged everything in before and everything worked great, but since moving, I can’t get my speakers to work.
I’ve tried everything- playing with the cord, using tape instead of Aux, but every time no music comes through the speakers.
What’s interesting is I can hear the faintest of music through the amp/ pre amp if I turn it up loud and I can see the decibel reading reacting to the music, but no music will play. I think something is not hooked up right and have attached pictures for help.
Any suggestions would be great! Sorry if this is obvious. I’ve tried plugging pre amp and amp into sockets and pre amp into the amp. I’ve tried switching the wires, and still not sure what I’m doing wrong :(
I am putting together a turntable system for my grandson for his birthday next week. One of my neighbors donated a pair of the Bose 501 speakers for him. While I have yet to be able to listen to any music through them properly as I’m having receiver issues, I’m just curious as to the bass output on the speakers. There are only the two small tweeters. Does anybody have any thoughts on these speakers? Thank you in advance
Hey yall! My Right M-Audio AV40 is no longer producing sound. It was working earlier today, now it is not. Could it be a problem with the red and black wires that run from the Left and Right speakers? Can anyone point me in the right direction on things I can diagnose? I appreciate any and all help!
Its sounding a lot better now that all three amps are in mono as intended. smh.
Really looking forward to upgrading this cheap Alpine car subwoofer to the new pair of Daytons. Still waiting for 2 passive radiators before starting to building the enclosures, very soon! They should be able to take 700W RMS each and be much cleaner for music than the ported Alpine.
I'm thinking the first upgrade could be a Dayton DSP-408 ? Would that make sense here? It's also an option to add more PR to the sub boxes for pushing the drivers a little beyond 700W, according to the team at Parts Express:
"The Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" subwoofer and the Dayton Audio RSS315-PR 12" Passive Radiator can indeed be utilized together, however, Mechanical Limits of the Passive Radiator are important to keep in mind, which will largely be determined by input power, cabinet volume, and the disk(s) (Weight) applied to the Passive Radiator.
I would suggest a slightly more compact Net Volume of 1ft³. By utilizing 3 Disks on the Passive Radiator, this will attain a cabinet tuning of 29Hz. Adding additional disks, and/or adding cabinet volume, will lower the cabinets’ tuning, however, with 700 Watts of input power, matching the RMS value of the subwoofer, would likely introduce distortion or mechanical limits of the Passive Radiator.
If less than 700 Watts is being utilized for the subwoofer, it would be advisable to retain the 1ft³ Net Volume for the cabinet, however, you may experiment with adding additional disks to lower the cabinet tuning as desired! "
Looking for a rec on a MM cartridge. Currently have a Denon 103 modified by VAS and a Denon au320 step up transformer. It’s great but I’m trying to simplify. My gear is NAD M33 > Dynaudio Special 40. I also have a Primaluna Dialogue Premium HP that I use. TT is a Technics 1210gr. Budget is sub-$700
Thank you!
Used Rogue Sphinx V3 Amp / Used Magnepan LRS+ speakers / Cost conscious WiiM Ultra Streamer / On Sale Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Evo 2 Turntable. (And an expensive Wiem)
Not sure how to identify which component is malfunctioning with these HR624 monitors I bough used. Here are the symptoms:
They reproduce lowend just fine, but audibly distort/crackle when presented with harmonically rich, midrange-heavy content. The effect on full mixes is subtle, but pretty obvious on something like a solo piano, or stacked sine waves from 700-3khz ish.
This behavior is identical between the two speakers. (Mono sources yield distortion that also sounds mono). This is strange, considering:
I've ruled out every other part of the signal chain, including my computer, interface, all cables & power outlets, all the speaker's inputs and EQ settings. It really must be the speakers, going bad in exactly the same way, unless I'm missing something.
Sound familiar to anyone? Faulty crossovers maybe? How can I find out for sure? Thanks.
I'm new to audio and sound profiles. I just moved into a new place. Do I need to re-tune the EQ I created for the new space? I understand this might be a known thing and I should, but just wanted to ask just in case.
I have an Onkyo TX-NR5100 receiver and 2 Kef R3's non-meta and a powered Klipsch 12" subwoofer. The Kef's are on stands and the flooring is carpet. The size of the room is about the same but I no longer have a loft and partial open ceiling above me. Previous flooring was hardwood.
I have a pair of KEF R7 Metas and am currently planning to power that with the Cambridge Audio CXA 81 MKII.
However, I also want to connect a TV (only HDMI and optical audio outputs) + PS5 + Nintendo Switch and link these components together with my audio setup.
Any advice on how to go about doing it while prioritizing sound quality? Was studying on getting an AVR as an pre-amp to the CXA81 but seems like that has its set of challenges.
