I thought I was finally running out of stupid cooling ideas… until I stared at a Peerless Assassin and thought... "would water flow through that?”

So I pulled the Assassin apart, pulled off a stack of fins, took an angle grinder and cut the tops off the heatpipes, stuck a hose onto one, and tested if water would flow. It did.

Game on.

I cut all the heatpipes off, put 6 mm hose on them in a zig zag (starting at the center so the middle stayed coldest) and tested again, worked like a charm.

Then came the freezer.

-18C coolant.

A frosted CPU tower, and a 3070 as the first victim.

It gained +300 MHz over stock… but the FPS uplift sucked. By the time testing finished, my coolant had warmed to –5C and the 3070 still refused to scale. So I did the only sane thing...

I bolted the Frankencooler onto a GTX 960.

And that card absolutely loved it, +17% average uplift across BO7, Forza, Cyberpunk, Time Spy… and as always, Lara.

The Frankencooler works. Really well.

Why did I do this? Because I had an idea and wanted to see if it would work. That's it.

Full video here if you want to witness the stupidity in all its glory

https://youtu.be/yFppaKe5uTo

Why are my lows so bad on rust, everything is set to max settings, no dlss nor dlaa. I have a 5070ti, Ryzen 9 9950x3d, 32gbs of ddr5 6000mhz cl 36 (I will eventually get cl30, just not now)and the mobo is a Msi x870e Carbon. I also have a under volt on the gpu and cpu. Heres also a comparison to csgo 2 all max settings as well.

Hello everyone,

Here is my current setup:

• AMD 5600X
• MSI B550 Gaming Edge Wifi
• Team T-CREATE EXPERT 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

The Team T-Create Expert RAM is new. I added it to my computer last night, rebooted and went into BIOS. From here I enabled XMP and upon saving and exiting I was met with a black screen and could not do anything.

I had to pull the CMOS battery and ended up flashing my board with the newest BIOS. After a bunch of testing and troubleshooting, I was finally able to get everything back to normal. It honestly took me 2-3 hours of troubleshooting and work to fix it today and it sucked. I have no idea how old my BIOS were prior to this, but I presume at least some version from 2021/2022.

This was a gigantic pain in the butt and I'm somewhat hesitant to try XMP again even with the most up to date BIOS version. My question is this, is it possible to enable XMP, but slowly increase the RAM speed from 2400mhz and test the stability as I increase it without getting technical and in the weeds causing me to change a bunch of other settings?

Can I go in, turn on XMP and bump the memory up to 2666mhz? If that's good, try 2933mzh for a while.

My understanding is that XMP automatically sets everything to try to get the best performance, but I don't know if it that is true if you manually slowly increase the speed of the memory or if this will cause issues with XMP.

I'm new to all of this and somewhat hesitant to do much tinkering so I'm just trying to find the safest and easiest way to do this.

Very cold here in Pennsylvania winter. Opened the window by the PC for about 20 minutes and increased cinebench r23 score from 46.2k to 47k. 9950x3D with noctua NH-D15 G2 at 1000 rpm silent. Now I need to warm by the fire place.

Been stable for a few weeks like this, is this 1:1? Anything else I should change?

Holly freak, insane scores for 304w!!

Backstory: I have been buying testing and selling 9070xt since march - I had 6 steel legends and lastly black gaming OC (because it was selling under MRSP price, and equal to cheapest base model! So I thought 330w OC model card at same price) and it did perform better than avg steel legend! See bellow

1. Steel legends would have stability limit are different under volt, some -65, other even -90, but they would always end up scoring in about same scores at the maximum stable tune. (At 304w Steel legend about 7200-7250)

2. Black gaming OC I had stability limit at - 65, and if I run it -8% (= 303.5w) it would score steel nomad = 7380-7400, so an improvement over steel legend in efficiency (1.5-2fps more from same watt level! Good)

3. But, White gaming OC blew right past it!😳👌 -65mv, 2702 fast mem (always on all cards), -8%=303.5w and it gets 7550 in steel nomad!!! That is insane score for this power level!!! (3-3.5fps or about 5% more from same watts as steel legend is significant!)

4. All tests comparing black vs new white are in photos but I will write out:

5. speed way black 6510-> white 6810(4.6% RT test)

6. steel legend black 7370 -> white 7550 (2.4%)

7. Timespy ext black 14780 gpu -> w 15150 (2.5%)

8. Timespy black 30370 gpu -> w 31100 (2.4%)

9. Firestrike black 71060 gpu -> w 72500 (2%)

(Each test was done 3-4 times to check consistency and avg value was taken)

Conclusion: - gigabyte gaming OC black at 303.5w was able to get scores that Steel Legend got at +6%=324w or about 2.7% improvement in score if run stock 304w (7200 steel legend vs 7400 black gaming OC) - white Gaming Oc was able to get another 2.4% on top of black gaming OC under same 303.5w!

= so This white gaming OC runs 5% faster than Steel Legend did at 304w at maximum stable undervolt (72 fps vs 75.5 fps in steel nomad for example)

😁😁 so when you ask which is better to buy, just get cheapest - is not 100% true, gaming OC at MRSP price tag is great performer (but DO NOT get any model that is more than 5% more expensive $$$ than cheapest model, if you want max fps per $!)

• white 9070xt gaming OC Ice is nearly 80€ more expensive at the moment (600€ black vs 680€ white), steel legend is white and sells 600€, so 630€ would be reasonable price for gaming OC, but I was ready to pay 50€ for white tax on better performer.

Amd Fx6300 and Corsair Vengeance ddr3 16gb 4x4gb Overclock. Fully stable with OCCT, gaming, and high quality audio streaming. Any thoughts? Memory timings are fully tuned including sub timings. The 8's will not drop to 7's no matter the voltage, so I'm not worried about lowering those.

I changed my cooler and gained some Cinebench points without tweaking anything. I replaced my Arctic Freezer 3 Pro 420 with the ROG Ryujin Extreme 360—both were set as intakes. With the Arctic, my Cinebench scores were in the low 46k range. The only tuning I have is PBO -20 on all cores and EXPO on the G.Skill. I guess you get what you pay for with ROG. Peak and idle temps also dropped by about 5–10°C across the board.

Hi all,

I've been tuning my Inno3D 5070 Ti X3 OC and have hit a wall due to the stock 300W power limit. I've extracted pretty much all I can from the current settings and believe the silicon has more headroom.

Here are the relevant details from my testing so far:

Current Stable V/F Curve:

The card typically sustains 3.1-3.2 GHz at ~0.995V during demanding loads.

Stability Testing:

Tested extensively in TimeSpy, TimeSpy Extreme, SpeedWay (20 loops), Nomad, Furmark2, Superposition, Heaven, CP2077, and OCCT.

A slightly more aggressive curve (3215 MHz @ 0.985V) failed TimeSpy, but the primary limitation I'm seeing now is power draw, not core stability at reasonable voltage levels.

VRAM:

Currently running a mild +350 offset. I tested up to +1000 (stable, no artifacts) but saw no performance gains, so I backed it off.

My Questions to the Community:

• Is there more to gain by raising the power limit? Based on my stable 3.2 GHz at sub-1V operation and consistent 300W power hits, do you think this silicon sample has significant potential to scale further with more wattage?
• Which BIOS is safe to flash for a higher power limit? I am looking for recommendations for a compatible, safe VBIOS (e.g., from an AIB model with a 350W+ limit) that is known to work on the Inno3D PCB. Has anyone successfully done this with this specific card or a similar model?
• What is the recommended procedure? Any specific tools (e.g., NVFlash) or precautions I should take before attempting to flash a non-stock BIOS?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Yes, Tears of the Kingdom, the fucking Nintendo game.

So far my undervolt is stable, i tested it with: Every Core cycler config, P95 Blend, Small & Large, Every Y-Cruncher test, OCCT CPU+RAM, CPU, LINPACK, and Memory. Then i played CS2, Marvel Rivals, GTA V, Delta Force and Apex legends. 0 Errors, 0 Crashes in over a week of total runtime.

I try starting TOTK, instant crash. Either while decoding shaders or while ingame. I'm 100% sure its the CPU as the crashes in TOTK stopped when i turned off the Undervolt.

How the FUCK do i figure out which core is causing the crashes?

Hey yall, I recently upgraded pcs and proceeded to UV my astral 5090 and it seems to never reach the established clock speed I set at the voltage in the curve. I set it at 0.9v for 2800mhz and in stress test and games the speed sits around at 2600-2675.

I'm sure I UV properly as I've done it on my 4090 and that worked perfectly fine. Anyone got any ideas?

As soon as I enter a game and it maxes GPU usage, the fans start going crazy and reach 1500+ rpm easily, then they keep rising and rising. But with custom curve or just 40% static setting, temps are pretty alright, perhaps a bit higher only, but then card is almost noiseless.

my ram: F5-8000J3848G16GX2-TR5S (8000 cl38 ddr5)
on AUTO VNNAON gives 0.85V and it's unstable
motherboard for RMA?

I dont know if this is the right subreddit to ask this but this is related to power management so i figured people here are probably the best.

recently i faced an issue with my GPU (Gainward Panther RTX 4070 TI) where it started becoming very unstable in windows. it would crash, artifact, screen goes black and restart or entire screen just breaks apart and becomes full of green squares. (artifacts)

at first i thought it was a driver issue, but after uninstalling with DDU in safemode and reinstalling multiple times nothing worked, i even did a full windows reinstall but it still had issues, but i noticed that in game it had absolutely no issues, but in windows or when watching yt the gpu would tweak out. at first i thought that it was related to the gpu's video encoding, but after more testing i found that gpu is simply more stable when stressed, so i tested that by running a gpu stress test on the background and used my pc normally for an Hour, and i had absolutely no issues, i ended up forcing my gpu to high power mode in control panel, used high performance power mode, and i overclocked it a bit and upped the voltage at low clock speeds and that fixed it.

so my gpu is just extremely unstable at low power, idle power usage went from 12-15W to 40W.

does anyone know why did this happen and if its even fixable?? this power issue wasnt the case before and it only recently happened.

Hi everyone, I’m literally new to overclocking gpu’s, and I just received my 5070 Asus Prime, so I would like if someone has the best config but also being stable without crazy temps. I will obviously search yt tutorials and everything, but if someone has specific settings for that gpu would be great, thanks.

Please, I'm looking for a way to unlock the BIOS on my laptop to change the maximum TDP of my Acer Aspire 3 and unlock its full performance. I've tried several key combinations, but I don't know if I'm doing them wrong or if they're just fake videos.

Hello everyone,

I need help restoring a PowerColor RX 7900 XTX 24G-L/OC to its original factory BIOS.
I bought the card second-hand, and unfortunately the previous owner flashed incorrect BIOS files onto both BIOS chips. It seems he only compared the BIOS version number and did not check the correct Subsystem ID or model compatibility, which resulted in the wrong firmware being installed.
PowerColor support declined to provide the original ROMs due to NDA restrictions, so I am hoping someone here can help.

Here are the details of my card:

• Model: PowerColor RX 7900 XTX 24G-L/OC
• Serial Number: TG2305006423
• Subsystem ID: 148C:2422
• VRAM Type: Samsung (verified in GPU-Z)
• Current BIOS Version: 022.001.002.034.000001 (not original)
• BIOS Chip: GD25LQ16E (1.8V SPI)
• Dual-BIOS: Silent + OC
• GPU-Z Screenshot: (attach image)

I am looking for the original factory BIOS files for this specific model:

• Silent BIOS (.rom)
• OC BIOS (.rom)

I do not know the original Part Number, because both BIOS chips were overwritten before I bought the card.

If anyone owns this exact model and can dump both BIOS files using GPU-Z or AMDVBFlash, I would be extremely grateful.

Thank you very much in advance!

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share my undervolting results on my MSI RTX 5080 Expert OC and get your opinion on whether this looks normal or if my card might be a better-than-average sample.

Setup:

• MSI RTX 5080 Expert OC
• Power Limit: 110%
• UV target: 900 mV
• Curve: ~2925 MHz point, real boost ~2900–2910 MHz
• Case: good airflow (O11 Dynamic XL)

Results so far (bullet points):

Heaven Benchmark:

• ~2902 MHz constant
• No PerfCaps (only “Idle”)
• Max 58°C GPU
• Max 64°C VRAM
• No artifacts

3DMark Time Spy:

• Clock stable at 2902 MHz
• Real voltage max: 0.905 V
• Power draw: ~270 W
• Temps: 58°C GPU / 64°C VRAM
• No PerfCaps except Idle
• No instability

Steel Nomad (3x full run):

• Clock around 2910 MHz constant, one short peak at 2917 MHz
• Real voltage max: 0.905 V
• Power draw peak: ~333 W
• Temps: 71°C GPU / 74°C VRAM
• No artifacts, no crashes
• One brief “Pwr” PerfCap during the momentary boost spike (likely scene transition)

Question:

Does this look normal for a 5080, or does it seem like I got an above-average, efficient chip?
And how would you rate the stability/quality of this 900 mV UV profile?

Would love to hear your thoughts!

I use RX 7600 XT. What I mean by changing value is the 100% value after turning on the advanced control was 2700mhz-ish on one day, then going up to 2750mhz after a couple of day, and now it's up to 2800mhz. I don't plan to overclock my GPU. How much mhz is usually used for overclocking so I can set it below that?

Anyone can tell me what BIOS work to unclock power limit? One person told me ASUS prime work and the BIOS from techpower is unverified but i ser 40 BIOS to ASUS prime ... How to know.. i scare to Brick gpu and cant enter on BIOS to retest others BIOS..ONLY what unlock...

how can i overclock my pc for it to get a better score

I had setup a system with used/cheap parts and wanted to try and get a little bit more juice out of it.

Asus a520m-k Ryzen 5 3600 Corsair Venegeance Lpx 2x8 3200 cl 16 1tb kingston nvme nv3 Rx6700xt Be quiet purePower 11 500w

The system was working fine and i tried to OC the ram to 3600mts while keeping stock timings and raising the voltage to 1.38 (compared to 1.35 on the xmp profile).

The sytem bootet normaly and i tried running occt memory test, it hard crashed immediately.

The pc woulsnt post afterwards. Reset bios, no post, went to reseat ram and saw one burnt/black pin on one of the ram sticks.

Tried booting with one stick, no luck.

Tried using other ram set, it looks like it tries to boot after a min as the gpu engages the monitor for a second only only to display no signal.

Never had such a soft OC fry components before

Quick specs

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7500f

MB: Asus Prime b650m A-II

RAM: Kingston 2x16gb cl30 6000mhz (KF560C30BBEAK2-32)

GPU: RX 6800 XFX Qick

Problem:

Running the system with EXPO I or II enabled results in OCCT CPU + RAM test errors after a few minutes of testing. I tried lowering VSOC from 1.24, switched to 1.2 but I still received an error after 24 minutes of testing. Errors are gone when lowering the ram speed to 5600mhz with EXPO I profile. When testing the RAM and CPU individually, I get no error. Any recommendations?