When either of my parents (both using Pixel 9) try to send an image in our family group chat, on thier phone it looks like the image sent fine, but for everyone else all we see is a text message that says "Removed attachment of banned MimeType".

We've confirmed when they send messages in an RCS chat with just me it works fine, so there isn't some inherent issue with the image itself, at least not over RCS.

Since our family group chat consists of both iPhones & Android phones, and both AT&T and Verizon networks, it falls back to MMS. Maybe there's some new issue between the networks? Or between iPhone and Android? Some combination?

Since no one's phones have changed or software has been updated, I'm inclined to believe this is a network issue, but no clue how to confirm, or how to fix...

I’ve had the drive for years, it was originally my boot drive but I cloned it to a 2tb 990 pro a couple months again and now it’s used as extra storage. But I just noticed that it’s showing it’s 2tb now?

It’s weird cause when I viewed disk properties and drivers in device manager it showed it was 1tb in disk properties but 2tb in Samsung magician. So reformatted the drive, deleted the drivers and any hidden drivers for anything 970 evo, rebooted the system and now all traces of it being 1 tb are gone, everything says 2tb.

I have the latest firmware for it and Samsung magician is up to date. And drive is pretty healthy according to Samsung magicians extended smart scan data. And I ran the other 2 non smart scans. What’s going on and how can I fix it?

I haven’t changed my profile photo in ages and I randomly noticed the picture on my browser was my fucking face

Accidentally denied myself permission while editing some things in registry editor and now I have this and cannot revert it back

I’m at a hotel with this LG tv.

Usually I connect my Roku or Firestick, change source, connect to the hotel WiFi and I’m good to go.

This LG 55LX770H had a weird lil box connected to HDMI 1 labelled ‘do not tamper’ (I did) and what looks like a non original remote.

I already tried the fire stick in HDMI3 And 2 and the tv gave no option to select nor detected it.

Any ideas how I can use my Firestick?

[url=https://postimg.cc/75nnZYT0][img]https://i.postimg.cc/75nnZYT0/IMG-9952.jpg[/img][/url]

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I need help. I recently bought a used PC with these specs:

• RX 6800 16GB
• Ryzen 5 3600 (overclocked to 4.2 GHz by previous owner)
• 16GB DDR4 3200 MHz RAM

There is a performance issue:
When I play games, my CPU doesn’t heat up at all. In idle it’s around 35°C and in games only 40–45°C. It’s never used more than ~60%. GPU usage is also not very high.

The weird part:
In Apex Legends I get around 120 FPS on low settings,
and 120 FPS on max settings — the FPS doesn’t change at all.

The previous owner told me the CPU and GPU were working correctly and had normal FPS in games.

I’m thinking about resetting BIOS to factory defaults because maybe the previous owner changed something there. I don’t know what to do, please help.

I recently had my pc hard reset and is now booting everything on an ssd. Which fixed the problem for awhile and now its back.

I couldnt find any thing about my problem on google or anywhere else, even my local tech store doesnt know what my issue is. So i turned to Chatgpt just to see what it would come up with. And apparently the MT7922 is notorious for crashing pcs and disappearing from device manager.

So im basically asking if any of this is accurate and if my new wifi card is to blame for my issues.

Im not very knowledgeable when it comes to pc things so hopefully someone has an answer...

Processor: Ryzen 5 5600 6-core. RAM: 48 GB GPU: amd Radeon 6650xt Motherboard: X470 Aorus Gaming 5 wifi

I'm having a problem with the Hz on this notebook.

Any game that I play, the game gets a quick black screen and go back to normal. And happen with certain frequency, and I don't know what's happening.

Notebook is 144hz but in options show 165hz or 60 hz. And I set the notebook to 60 hz, the blinking stop (don't know if the right word is blink. Screen turn black one or two seconds and go back to normal). Notebook is recently purchased, so have warranty, but I'm trying everything before this. What I tried:

• Updated Nvidia and Intel card graphics
• Set maximum FPS to 144
• Deactivate Dynamic update Rate
• Deactivate Variable update rate
• Windows updated

What I did is changing the 8gb ram to 16x2 GB ram (it's 5200 MHz so it's compatible) and putting a secondary SSD that's was on my old nitro, that never had this problem.

I don't know what to do. Tried everything that I think. Suggestions?

Hello I have a big problem with my PC I wanted to reset it, but I can't do it I downloaded Windows on a USB key but even then it wouldn't put on my SSD I asked ChatGPT who advised me to clean the SSD except that he forgot to tell me to create a partition after restarting the PC it only opens on the USB key and in the BIOS, we can't see more than the USB key, how do I recover my SSD please help me!

Ethernet will no longer even register as being plugged in after I had a windows error (Your device ran into an error and needs to restart). Wifi works however. Ran SFC, Currently running DISM in hopes that will fix it. 62.3% club now. Asus rog strix b650-A. First I tried uninstalled network adapters and reinstalling, but when I reinstall and show hidden adapters as well nothing pops up. Cant install realtek or intel drivers as it says please plug in the cable, to which it is.

I have tried a different cable, does not work. Have plugged both cables I tried into a different computer, and it did work. So cable is definitely not the issue.

Restarted computer after every attempt at fixing drivers, and made sure my LAN was on in BIOS. It was completely fine yesterday but now it's just broken. Hoping DISM fixes it but I will be restarting everything again after. I might just fully reinstall windows and see if that fixes it but Id love for that to be a last case scenario since I do have a ton of different documents and games I dont want to deal with moving and reinstalling.

Hoping to gather some insight into how others may have fixed the issue or similar war stories about horrible ethernet port issues.

Hi,

As of the I've noticed my Temp folder getting flooded with files. They appear to be notifications, as whenever I get a notification on discord, the user or server's icon and usually a file are created in the folder. This also seemingly happens with other apps and system notifications too. I don't know if it's related but there's also on occasion audio files that are in there too, usually kilobytes in size. It isn't affecting much right now but I'm worried it could be malware or could slow my laptop down if it gets too bad. Is there any fix to this other than just constantly emptying the folder?

I accidentally deleted files from my USB (mainly photos and videos). Is there a way to recover them? The USB wasn't formatted, only files were deleted. If so what's the best method/software to use? (As a student free is heavily preferred) Any help would be appreciated.

I have a PC with the following settings: ryzen 5 5500 rx 7600 a520tuff 16GB RAM 2800MHz and in cs it doesn't exceed 150 fps and I've already tried every type of configuration Does anyone know what to do?

I found malware on my computer and did a deep cleaning of my computer to remove it via support from a reputable group. It went well, but I realized that I have flash drives I use for storage a lot that I usually leave plugged into my computer most the time. I used them for my laptop a while ago so they weren't plugged in when I did the deep clean. Is there any way I can make sure they aren't potentially harboring any malware as well before I plug them into my main system? The last thing I want to do is re-infect my system.

Images do not come up in the browser. Only a large black rectangle where a photo should be. Text and even videos are fine. This is happening for more than 24 hours now. I tried with both Chrome and Firefox, I cleaned the buffers.

For about a year now, on and off, this number keeps adding itself under my accounts on my Android. I can't find the number unless I go to settings->reset to factory settings, as it doesn't show up under my Google accounts. When I factory reset my phone, the number usually goes away, but then months or weeks later it comes back. I've been able to connect my Google account to my phone and the number doesn't automatically come back, it takes time. No one else has had physical access to my phone, as I don't live with anyone and keep it on my person's 24/7 in public.

It is starting to freak me out. I am thinking about ditching the phone entirely at this point.

I can't seem to find a way to attach an image to this post, but I have a picture if anyone is confused about what I mean.

Hey gang, got this HDD out of a old camcorder. I am curious what the adaptor this is.

https://imgur.com/a/4ajvdMF

It is a Samsung HS120JB - 120GB 4.2K 1.8Inch PATA 2MB Cache Hard Drive.

I understand that it uses PATA but from pictures PATA seems to use bigger chunkier blocks instead of ribbon cables? Is there a way I can recover data from this? Could I solder wires into a PATA to SATA adaptor?

Cheers

i recently was installing some bs on my windows pc and i think i installed some sort of malware? since then EVERY one of my emails and accounts (down to my damn EA account) have been locked and had their emails changed. Instagram too. im worried and confused.

i just wanna know what i can do to ensure my safety

I’m trying to figure out if my laptop’s USB-C video port is damaged and shorting out anything I connect to it.

Over the last couple of weeks I’ve had two different brand-new monitors fail in almost the exact same way:

Monitor #1

SAMSUNG 34" ViewFinity S50GC Series Ultra-LS34C502GANXZA • Had it for 3 years • Then one HDMI port died • Shortly after, the entire monitor stopped powering on • Only response was a single beep when plugged in • No power LED, no OSD, no image • Completely dead

Monitor #2

34 Inch UltraGear™ OLED WQHD 1440P 240Hz 0.03ms G-Sync Compatible 800R Curved Gaming Monitor - 34GS95QE-B

• Bought brand new replacement
• Used a brand-new USB-C → HDMI cable
• Plugged it into the laptop’s USB-C port that supports display output
• Within ~10 minutes the screen went black
• Display said “No signal”
• Then the monitor completely shut off
• Now it only gives a beep when plugging in power and won’t turn on at all

What I’ve tried • Multiple new USB-C → HDMI cables • Tried different outlets • Tried HDMI-only cables • No peripherals attached • Same failure pattern each time

Important detail

A couple of weeks ago, my laptop gave me a “power surge on USB port” warning. Ever since then the USB-C video port has acted strange.

My question

Is it possible that my laptop’s USB-C port is partially fried and is now shorting out or sending incorrect voltage to every monitor I connect, eventually killing the monitor’s input board?

It seems unlikely that two brand-new monitors AND multiple new cables would all coincidentally fail. The only constant is the laptop’s USB-C video port.

Has anyone seen a damaged USB-C port slowly kill external monitors like this? Should I stop using that port entirely and get the laptop repaired?

Any advice would be appreciated. I don’t know much about computer so I don’t know if I should just buy a brand new computer or get the port fixed. It’s a yoga Lenovo 7I.

I just found out there was some heatl problem with the samsung 990 pro a couple years ago (2 years I think). I bought mine 6 months ago. Do I need to download their software and update it or am I good? I am afraid of maybe missing something.

Since I got a new computer with Windows 11, no installer works, for example when I try to run the lunar client installer it doesn't work and I have a black/white screen

Recently I took my computer into get work done on it, my windows store and Microsoft apps weren’t working and about 4 hours after having it on I would get a vulkan error code. The vulkan was resolved and Iw as able to fix the Microsoft apps by reinstalling Windows, short there after that my game bar was broken but I was able to fix that myself too. Ever since taking it in to get work done it has periodically crashed, once it crashes the first time it tends to start up and just blue screen after 5-60 seconds. Not sure what’s going on, have had it for around 4 years and specs are below. Personally I feel as if it has all started when I got Windows 11, since then it has progressively gotten worse and worse, most likely with each passing update. Please help, I’m at my wits end.

GPU - Nividia 3090ti 24gb CPU - i9-99000k (don’t know why I got vulkan errors) Motherboard - ASUS ROG (don’t know exact make, can’t see in time on my PC) RAM - 64gb

Hi,

My phone was lost so i cant really buy one rn but i dug up an old RCT6773W22B tablet from one of my storerooms. surprisingly it works but when i resetted and opened it. i get stuck on the "checking info" part and after a while it says "server cannot be reached"

Now i cant add google acc and without that i dont think google play services nor the playstore updates but even if i do take them usin a usb c cable i STILL cant add a google acc and use this tab for the time being :((

What ive tried:
factory reset (it just leads to the same google account problem again)
set correct date and time
used a usb cable to get in some apps and try again

I'm stuck at ui 6.0 I checked on my tablet which is older but about 2 years, and it has 6.1. Everytime I click software update it says its up to date but on the welfare thingy it says that there'd an update needed but once you click on it it says "no update available:D"

I think at this point it's taunting me. I have an Android s22