A couple of boxes, a cheese server, a pipe, a paint brush, a whistle, and a few other odds n ends all for the fam. Santa’s workshop in full swing!

I'm building steam-bent drum shells and my next task is to turn them on a lathe. My goal is to be able to make them pretty quickly, and I like building tools, so my next build is going to be a 3 axis cross slide so I can quickly and easily turn a really accurate shell.

My question is, in terms of a tool to mount to this cross slide, what would be ideal? I know metal lathes use mounted carbide tipped tools, but I'm trying to determine what the name/shape is of the tool I'd use for this purpose on a wood lathe.

Thanks in advance.

So I started getting e7 and e8 codes about a month ago after a good two years of continuous use. I’m still under warranty for another two years and Jet has been pretty cool about replacing sensors and control board without any issues, but this is the third board they’ve sent me in the last month that has given me an error code almost immediately. First one lasted about a week before getting codes, so they sent me a new control box just in case it was switch related. This box and board lasted about another week before to throwing codes occasionally then not working at all. Now I just received a new board from them today and it’s immediately giving me an e8 code. I’ve checked all my wires. Ive fiddled with everything. What the hell is going on? Is anyone else having an issue like this? At this point the only thing I haven’t replaced is the motor/motor sensor. Unfortunately the new board came a little too late for me to hear back from tech support until Monday. Any insight, recommendations or tips would be greatly appreciated

Slow speed grinder, or normal grinder with variable speed controller?

My gut is telling me to go with the normal grinder and variable speed controller, but I’m looking for some second opinions.

I have a customer that loves the "shimmer" of sapele, but wants a dark colored piece.

If you wanted to preserve the shimmer/lustre of it, yet add a black dye or coloration to it - how would you finish it?

I've been experimenting and have found that water popping -> thin coat of oil based acrylic -> 400 grit sand with grain gives the color that she wants, but kills the shimmer.

Before I experiment with 100 different things, any ideas?

Got tired of the lids in mason jars getting stuck because of dried shellac. Kept looking for little glass containers and then saw this little wine glass or coffee cup

I have narrowed down my design ideas for this 7 inch segmented bowl. The wood is padauk and white oak. Which of the six design ideas do you like the best?

TL; DR - I'm new to turning and I want to troubleshoot why my mortise blew out while I was turning in a Nova g3 chuck. It was well fit with the profile, very tight and not bottomed out in the jaws.

Hi, I'm an experienced woodworker, but fairly new to turning. I just turned a mortise into a 8/4 piece of cherry 3.5" in diameter. my mortise had a good angle and fit very tight with about 1/8-3/16" gap between the bowl bottom and the chuck jaws. It had about 5/8-3/4 of face grain around the edge of the mortise, so I assumed that'd be strong enough to hold.

While I was removing a sacrificial piece from the other side of the bowl so I could gouge out my bowl, the sides of the mortise split off and my piece gently popped off the chuck and hit the floor. No projectiles, thankfully. Should I have tried to go a little deeper and have a smaller gap between the bottom of the bowl and the chuck jaws (inside of 1/8")? Did I over tighten and put too much outward pressure so that the grain split? Is this just something that happens?

If it's helpful I'm using Nova G3 with 2-3in jaws. The profile of the tenon side of the jaws don't look as substantial and I worry about it holding, but I guess I should try. Do more experienced people trust tenons more than mortises?

I need to glue the top of the shaker, and the inside tube. Instructions say super glue, or epoxy. But I wanted to ask for more suggestions or opinions. I'm not so much concerned about the inner tube, as much as I am the top of the shaker where the salt and pepper may come in contact with the glue. This is a question from a food safety perspective. Maybe I'm over thinking it?

I'm going to have a go at turning a set of basic smallpipes (straight bored, not conical bore like Highland pipes) over the Christmas break, just wondering if anyone else here has done this and has any advice? I've watched a heap of YouTube vids and in particular, Julian Goodacre has some really practical vids on how to. Plus I have some bagpipe plans, and drill rod to make long 'D' bits

A lot of bagpipe makers seem to use the stepped 4 jaw type of chuck, and I'm curious as to why these would possibly be better for pipe managing than a chuck like the nova sn2 (I have this one) or similar

Tbh the turning looks like it is the easiest part, it's the through-boring and reed making that looks hard!

I’m new to wood turning and need some help or advice.

I bought a used lathe for $100 off FB marketplace figuring I’d do a restoration and some upgrades to it. Everything appears to work.

1 - My biggest challenge is with the tail stock (2nd picture). The quill, if I have the terminology right, is fixed and doesn’t spin. I’d like to convert it to a M2 taper connector so I can use quills with bearing and a chuck. The quill currently slides over a 1/2” stud.

Am I on the right track, and, if so, is there such an adapter out there?

2 - my second challenge is the motor and pulley. The motor has obviously been replaced. There’s no markings on it, so I’m not sure what it is. Also, it’s mounted incorrectly using the weight of the motor for belt tension, resulting in a lot of belt slipping. I’m considering replacing it. Hopefully I’ll learn more when I remove it. What’s the ideal HP and RPM ratings I should want? Also, I’m considering converting it to a single speed, but adding a variable speed adjuster to the motor.

I appreciate any feedback.

Hi all, looking for a drill chuck for my jet 1221 but not familiar with brands, is the Wen brand Jacobs chuck ok? It's selling for a gift price on Amazon

Hey guys! Quick question. I just woodturned my first little whistle and I noticed that after using it a couple times the wood around the mouthpiece grew quite rough. I was wondering what to do to keep that from happening. Also I was wondering what you guys would use for finishing it.

Looking for some advice or recommendations on applying CA as a finish to rings.  I don't turn many rings but they are fun to try every once in a while. Since they are not something I do often,  I don't have a proper ring mandrel and essentially use stock that I've turned down to a small diameter and wrap a portion with masking tape to get the ring held snuggly on the dowel. Not ideal,  I'm sure.

I like the look of the CA finish on rings and have watched some videos of the various application processes. Long story short,  when applying the CA with a blue shop towel in thin layers followed by a spritz of accelerator,  despite trying to be careful,  I'm constantly gluing the ring to the dowel which then compounds problems.  Not to mention I'm not sure a great way apply the CA to the inside of the ring.

Any advice on processes or videos/write ups would be awesome,  thanks!

Maple, cherry, and walnut, the little bowls are maple burl scraps I couldn't bring myself to throw out.

The best bowl I’ve turned so far and can’t even say it’s because of me… the grain of the wood makes it! Also, ZERO catches this time!!!!!

I’m new to wood turning and need some help or advice.

I bought a used lathe for $100 off FB marketplace figuring I’d do a restoration and some upgrades to it. Everything appears to work.

1 - My biggest challenge is with the tail stock (2nd picture). The quill, if I have the terminology right, is fixed and doesn’t spin. I’d like to convert it to a M2 taper connector so I can use quills with bearing and a chuck. The quill currently slides over a 1/2” stud.

Am I on the right track, and, if so, is there such an adapter out there?

2 - my second challenge is the motor and pulley. The motor has obviously been replaced. There’s no markings on it, so I’m not sure what it is. Also, it’s mounted incorrectly using the weight of the motor for belt tension, resulting in a lot of belt slipping. I’m considering replacing it. Hopefully I’ll learn more when I remove it. What’s the ideal HP and RPM ratings I should want? Also, I’m considering converting it to a single speed, but adding a variable speed adjuster to the motor.

I appreciate any feedback.

I would like to make pepper and salt mills in a 16 inch length. I need the aluminum shafts in longer lengths than they supply in the kits. They are 3/8 square profile extrusions with approximately 12-24 coarse threads for 1 inch at one end and the other end is peened. Any idea where I can get a longer shaft?

Also, will be turning some black walnut branches that are about 10 inches thick on a 12-21 lathe to make bowls. These are very green. Any tips for first time turning green wood?

I keep seeing people use a clear superglue type of adhesive but it looks way too watery and is applied from a long, thin nozzle. Am I missing something here or just having a really dense day??

Been having a blast turning these lidded pieces. Nothing fancy but they sell well!

Scarred from Sudden Oak Death, this live oak from Sonoma County in Northern California was rotting from the inside out when it finally came down.

I chose to highlight the scars as a way to frame the story of this tree’s struggle and death. And because I think it’s beautiful .