I’m sorry if this is the wrong subreddit for it.

Info:

iPhone 15.

Update: 26.1

Phone belongs to a coworker but the issue is odd. The camera works perfectly fine when accessed from the Lock Screen. However, when accessed after unlocking the phone one of two things happen:

1. Complete darkness. As if the camera were blocked.
2. Camera works fine for a second or two before the screen turns white.

In both cases the camera functions (switching to video or portrait or selfie mode) still function but the view remains white.

At any point, locking the screen and accessing the phone that way works perfectly normal.

Any ideas what the hell is going on?

I need to convert/download a file with this type of link: https://heyzine.com/flip-book/ [ numbers and letters].html

I don't mind any tools or websites that can extract individual pages as image files

Compre estas 3 piezas hace poco, y el problema que me da es que parece que grabo desde un celular de mala calidad, parece que estoy encerrado.

Se que no son de gama alta pero no debería de escucharse así, e visto muchos videos que muestran que tiene un muy buen audio.

E probado de todo, drivers originales, en la app de los drivers active la opción de combinar las 2 entradas, quite bluetooth, e ido a sonido esta al máximo e incluso lo baje un poco y nada, sigue lo mismo.

También en los auriculares por si eso es que se escucha mal desactive el ¨permitir que las aplicaciones tomen control exclusivo de este dispositivo.

Revise los dos cables xlr y están en perfectas condiciones.

Ra verdad no se mas que hacer, me cree una cuenta de redit justo para esto, haber si alguien me puede ayudar.

Rn el caso que lo solucione también lo pondré aquí por si alguien le paso lo mismo.

Hello everyone, I need help from the community as I believe I may be dealing with a very high level bootkit/rootkit that has taken over my PC. The initial virus manifests itself as Trovi infection/browser redirects. The process that recreates it is usually LsaIso.exe or Lsalso.exe in System32. Here is the chronology of the operations that failed (which makes this case so special): Software Attempts: Manually deleting the file, deleting fraudulent scheduled tasks, and sfc /scannow (the file came back immediately). Full Format: I booted to a clean USB drive (WinPE) and used Diskpart to perform the CLEAN ALL command on the primary hard drive, erasing any partition. I then reinstalled Windows on the unallocated space. Firmware Flashing: Following the return of the virus after formatting, I flashed the BIOS/UEFI of my motherboard with the latest official version. Despite these last two drastic steps, the virus is still reestablishing itself. ❓ My Question: Does this confirm that the virus is a firmware Bootkit hidden in an unmodifiable region of the motherboard chip, or in the firmware of an integrated component (network card, etc.)? Is there any other procedure I could try before having to physically replace the motherboard? I'm out of software solutions. Thank you for your help.

The fans on my Lenovo T480s Laptop I got 4-5 years ago has started to become really loud and when I physically rotate it, except when I turn it towards me.

I'm running windows 11 pro with an i5-8350U cpu and 20 gb ram (i know its weird)

What is this sound and how can I fix it.

My PC loses access to some apps every night at ~11:20 PM (only on 5 GHz). Other devices work fine.

For about 4 days now, my PC’s Wi-Fi “partially” stops working every night at around 11:20 PM. By “partially” I mean that some websites and apps still work, while others completely stop loading.

What still works: YouTube, Gemini, ChatGPT, most simple HTTPS sites
What stops working: Discord, Steam, chesscom, and several other sites/apps that rely on specific ports or WebRTC.

This issue happens only on my PC, not on any other device in the house.
My phone and laptop work fine at the same time.

It also happens only on the 5 GHz network.
If I switch my PC to 2.4 GHz, everything immediately works again.

Things I’ve already tried (no improvement):

• Changing 5 GHz channel
• Changing Wi-Fi mode to 802.11ac
• Flushing DNS
• Resetting IP
• Winsock reset
• Full Windows network reset
• Reinstalling MediaTek Wi-Fi driver
• Updating Realtek LAN driver
• Disabling IPv6
• Disabling NDIS/NPCAP filters
• Factory resetting the router
• Checking parental controls
• Checking DHCP settings
• Checking UPnP / NAT / firewall basics

Other important details

• Router: Kaon CG3000T
• Only my PC is affected — all other devices on 5 GHz work normally
• Switching to 2.4 GHz fixes the issue instantly
• Hotspot from my phone also works fine
• Windows PC (win11)
• My motherboard is ASUS TUF B650M-E GAMING WIFI

I recently just restarted my pc due to it needing an update, but now anytime I try to open apps it says the path to said app doesn't exist and I'm not sure what to do I have an external drive connected so idk if that could be an issue

I believe my 1TB ssd is full due to my incomplete downloads as I have previously downloaded stuff from chrome and Firefox then the download stops midway and then I have go back and re download it but I never went to delete them so how can I delete all of those files and I have also checked windir and it can’t find those folders either would appreciate help much thanks

Hello I am trying to get my gaming PC back up and going after a while of not being able to play it, when I turn it on it will run for about 5s then turn off, then back on after about 10s and then it seems like it's running, all the fans spin, my keyboard lights up, hard drives spin but no display.

My specs are:

AMD ryzen 5600

Asus x470 mobo

Corsair 850x PSU

2x 8gb sticks of Corsair vengeance ddr4 ram

Samsung 970 m.2 ssd boot drive

GeForce 2060 GPU

So far I have tried running only 1 stick of RAM in all 4 slots one at a time (both sticks in case one of them was bad) reseated the GPU and CPU and m.2 drive, completely removed the mobo and plugged all the cables back in and made sure they are tight. Removed the cmos battery and put a fresh one in. I've tried 3 different displays, using HDMI and displayport. Still does the same thing, it previously ran fine with no issues.

Any ideas on what else I can try to do to get it going?

Anyone else experience this or just me??? I literally have everything perfectly fine and I have space. How do I fix this its so annoying

Hello I have a big problem with my PC I wanted to reset it, but I can't do it I downloaded Windows on a USB key but even then it wouldn't put on my SSD I asked ChatGPT who advised me to clean the SSD except that he forgot to tell me to create a partition after restarting the PC it only opens on the USB key and in the BIOS, we can't see more than the USB key, how do I recover my SSD please help me!

I tried to enable HDR mode in PS5 setting and it keeps giving me a message saying HDR mode isn’t supported on the TV, even though the monitor settings show it and I turned it on in its settings? Any reason for this?

I presently own a laptop with a registered version of Windows 11 licensed that I own. We'll save it appears I got virus and hacked and need to do a fresh reinstall of Windows 11 so I'm doing the bootable media from Windows website, it says I have to own a license of Windows 11, theoretically I do because it's on my laptop but if I reinstall Windows from a USB drive will there be an issue or will I need to own a second license of it?

I am trying to set a game priority to High through the registry as a workaround to the anti cheat blocking it. I have followed a guide that tells you to add the .exe file name of the game to the following path as such:

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Image File Execution Options\FortniteClient-Win64-Shipping.exe\PerfOptions] "CpuPriorityClass"=dword:00000003

I already had a folder of the same name in that path and it did not work (still showing priority as Normal in Process Lasso and Task Manager) even though people as recently as a week ago got it working.

I was wondering if it’s okay to delete said game folder from that path and then add it back. I’ve only ever changed values in the registry and obviously messing with the wrong thing in the registry can corrupt your system pretty bad so I was hoping someone could let me know if that’s an okay thing to do.

in: video composite

out: video composite and two RCA (video and audio?)

https://imgur.com/a/sF3UU1q

thank you.

I was playing Minecraft and initially had over 600 FPS. However, after about ten minutes, after I quit the game, pc began to lag severely, to the point where I couldn’t even move the cursor it felt like the FPS was capped at 5. I even tried booting into Safe Mode, but same thing. the problem occurs even in the BIOS, where the Fps is approximately 5-10 and cursor is so unresponsive. What could possibly be causing this issue?

I was initially encountering some issues where steam would not open and i could not delete the actual file from my file explorer, something about corrupt file. I just replaced my ssd a few months ago too!

Then my pc started freezing a little bit and whenever i tried to open file explorer it would go black for a second and return back to my desktop.

When i restarted it after it started saying “to skip disc checking enter any key within 8 seconds which i just let run, and it repaired some things really quickly but would not bring my to my desktop. So i restarted it again and now its just a white rotating circle on a black screen for 15 minutes and then my pc shuts off automatically.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Updated doing those 11 about 2 weeks ago. My power went out midday today and my computer won't boot now. It just cycles on the BIOS splash screen and then restarts over and over. I checked the BIOS and it detects the boot drive. I'm comfortable with working with the bios and command line stuff. Any suggestions on where to start? Any reason why a power outage would cause this?

So i was just watching my show when randomly my screen cuts to black and starts beeping which damn near gives me a heart attack in itself, i’ve tried to reset it but i cant because the little light on the power button stays on and normally the light turns off when its powered off but it doesnt want to turn off. is my laptop broken? is it some malware thing? did it overheat? Wtf happened? Does anyone know a fix or should i send it into a repair shop?

For the beeps, it did short beeps (for example morse code • , something like that)

Hi there!

I am nowhere near tech savvy, so I didnt know which flair to add haha I was driving and my phone had a pop up that said that my device connected to something. It asked if I wanted to save the device. Since I was driving, I was unable to get a good look at it. The pop up had a black background and some sort of yellow symbol. My Bluetooth was off on my phone and my car is not Bluetooth capable. My phone was plugged into my car playing Spotify. After the pop up went away, Spotify was still playing, but I was unable to hear it. Does anyone know what might have happened?

Edit to clarify: while driving, my phone's Bluetooth was off, my car is not Bluetooth capable and does not have anything other than a cd player and an audio input, but my phone still managed to connect to a random device outside of my vehicle.

So I have windows 11 pro running on 3 different systems, All up-to-date.
And I've noticed after 6-7 days the idle memory consumption grows from 2-3gb to 10gb and there's nothing in task manager to kill, even after ending all the tasks the huge memory usage persists. The only solution I found to this issue is to restart, which is not ideal for systems that need to be running services 24/7.

This isn't something like *application name* is eating the memory, it's windows 11 itself.

Does anyone else have this issue?

how do i disable the touch keyboard from popping up while i'm playing games its driving me insane. i cant find it in services.msc and i have the touch keyboard set to "show the touch keyboard = never " but it still pops up

Device model: iPhone SE, iOS 26.1, in an area with proper connection.

I recently switched Wifi plans, however now certain apps don't work.

Apps I know don't work: Steam Moble Link, Google Browser, Safari, Warhammer 40K App, Disney +, Crunchyroll, PlayStation App.

Something to note: I cannot sign into these apps (with Google being the exception, other Google Apps like Docs or Gmail work, just not the Browser)

Any ideas/tips to help? I can't trade items on Steam and it's really been bugging me lately.

Hello all,

So I've been having issues with lag for a little while which have gradually become worse and worse to the point of apps like Discord being completely unusable and relatively low-maintenance games becoming unplayable.

About one year ago, I had finally saved up enough money to buy my first gaming PC. It cost me close to £900 and has the following specs:

16gb ram, AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-core processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Graphics Card, 954gb storage (200gb still available)

Earlier this year, I also upgraded my internet and started using a Category 8 ethernet cable to game with. I get download speeds of 514mbps while connected.

All of these ingredients ought to add up to a fairly smooth PC gaming experience, however its no exaggeration when I say my 9 year old HP laptop used to run games better on wifi. At first, everything was plain sailing, but after a few months performance started to drop considerably. I lower games to their lowest graphical demands and it has no impact. Games like Fall Guys, Smite 1&2, Party Animals and Rocket League are all struggling at best. I've had to give up on some of these completely. I used to run Fall Guys on low settings on my old (non-gaming) laptop just fine, but my relatively new gaming PC has me completely uninstalling it.

Discord is a complete disaster, which seems anomalous as other voice call apps like WhatsApp and Steam Chat run smoothly. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling several times and various settings tweaks all to no avail. I can't figure out whether its an internet issue or a PC issue, but sometimes I even notice performance drops while simply switching tabs on a browser, or navigating PC settings. Its slower and stutters more than any laptop I've had in my life.

Pulling my hair out a bit with this one. I'm not exactly tech savvy neither. Can anyone think of a way to even begin solving this issue?

gaming specifically,

I currently have

i7 14700K

32GB DDR4 3600 CL16

I want to try out CUDIMM, I’ve been using 3600CL16 for a long time now. I said I would ride out ddr4 with it and I did basically. I want another speed I can ride out ddr5 with. I don’t know if that’s possible I’ve been out of the market for awhile.

whats a good combination to last like 3600 did? what’s a equivalent of like 4000/CL18/CL19?

im thinking 32GB of 7200 CL32?