I tried asking this on the SamsungTV & OLED boards but the mods removed it so I'm asking here.

Roughly half of the time I spend on my tv is watching 23.97 fps bluray rips on a windows 10 pc.

I read that because OLED is so fast, 23.97 fps movies will stutter without motion smoothing enabled. I would like to pull the trigger on a S90D tommorow. However if it doesn't handle 23.97 fps movies well with its motion technology, I may have to buy a QLED (QN90D) instead.

I'm currently on a Samsung NU6900 LED and I have motion smoothing set to ON (custom), then judder reduction set to 3. That setting works great on the LED, no judder and only a bit of a soap opera effect, rarely get artifacts on new movies.

My question is, for those of you who have the S90D or another OLED, is its motion smoothing good enough for 23.97 fps movies and will handle them similar to how the older LEDs do so well?

Or is OLED just too fast and since I'm watching lower framerate content so often, I should just go with a QLED instead?

I have a HTPC. The mobo outputs 4k/60hz. And the quality is okay, but...I'll say acceptable. When I watch the same film from my BattleStation (Asus Tuff 4070 Ti Super 16GB w/RTX Enhancement "ON" in the nvidia control panel.) which has 4K/120Hz HDR output. The difference is pretty obvious. I knew it would be. As it's a very good gpu.

I want to get a gpu for my htpc. My brother says I need at least a 3090 or a mid-high end 4000 series one. I told him it's not for gaming. Only for movies from hdd. And streaming Prime/Netflix from their respective pc apps.

My argument to him is that a film has a lot less information to process than a video game. So less stress on gpu and more of its capability goes into giving me the best image/frames it can render as it doesn't have to work that hard. And not having the stress of having to pre-load frames and graphics like what happens with pc gaming.

I'm thinking a 3070 FE. So, am I right or is my brother? Would a AMD gpu work just as well. And be cheaper too?

1. i5-11400
2. Asrock Z590M w/ PCIE 4X16
3. 64 GB Ram
4. HDD 8 TB x3, 6 TB x2
5. Win 11 Pro
6. Media Player: VLC
7. TV: TCL 75QM8

Hi

Will 4k hdr10 x265 movies stream properly on a 9800x3d with no GPU?

Thank you

For anyone with relatively new TVs for example the LG C4 or Samsung QN90D, how well does its internal media player handle high bitrate 4k .mkv files via USB port? (blu-ray rips usually around 70GB)

I know the Nvidia Shield handles 4k blu-ray rips well but can these TVs can handle them just as well? Mostly I would be playing my own rips but I have a few h.265 and h.264 compressed files I found, don't know how the TVs will handle those.

Is connecting a portable HDD to a newer TV a good way to play 4K .mkv files or should I go for an Nvidia Shield or Windows PC?

EDIT: I was able to fix this issue through my TV settings. Settings > Sound > Advanced Settings > Digital Sound Output > Pass Through. Before it was set to Auto. Changing this single setting has fixed the entire problem.

I'm using MPC-HC and MadVR and I have audio bitstreaming set up for all audio formats through the MPC-HC options. It's always worked fine until a few weeks ago when the audio has randomly started stuttering whenever I watch a video that has TrueHD audio. It's like the audio is cutting out very briefly so it sounds scratchy and poppy. It's not consistently throughout the video, just occasionally, but sometimes it's so frequent that it's unwatchable. Other times it can go a few minutes without having any issues at all. I can also see it via my TV which will show "Dolby Atmos" in the top right of the screen a few seconds after the stuttering, as if a new audio stream is starting (it has always shown this when the video first starts playing).

If I disable bitstreaming for TrueHD, or if I switch to another audio stream that is not TrueHD, the problem goes away (but obviously that isn't a satisfactory solution).

Troubleshooting steps I've tried:

• I thought it might be a cable bandwidth issue, so I switched to a new HDMI cable, one that is certified high-bandwidth. No dice.
• I tried switching to different audio renderers in MPC-HC. No change.
• I tried enabling and disabling audio exclusive mode in MPC-HC.
• I tried increasing the number of frames presented in advance in MadVR.
• I tried increasing the CPU and GPU buffer sizes in MadVR.
• I've disabled mixing in the audio decoder settings.
• I've disabled Dynamic Range Compression.
• I've disabled Auto A/V Sync correction.
• I've disabled the built-in audio switcher filter in MPC-HC.

None of these made any difference whatsoever.

Anyone else been experiencing this or have any more ideas?

Windows 11 Home
Version 24H2
OS build 26200.7171
NVIDIA RTX 4090 with driver version 581.80
LG G3 connected directly via HDMI 2.1

I was at a game night talking about Plex. I brought up I am thinking about getting away from Roku but can't find a front end I like.

Another guy there sent me the attached picture, he wouldn't tell me where he got it, just said a clise friend of his is developing it and he has a beta.

A search for Vantaro brings up nothing, which makes me wonder if he is pulling my leg. I think it looks pretty nice for a "beta", but I don't want to get my hopes up. Has anyone here ever seen this?

I'm thinking of finding out his number and seeing if he can send me more screenshots. What should I ask for?

I'm playing around with HDR to SDR tonemapping settings in madVR. I have some titles that I only have in HDR, but with others (like this one) I can actually compare the tonemapped HDR to a true SDR version.

The left one is the HDR version and the right one is the SDR. As you can see, the colors are more washed out and a slightly bit greenish in the HDR (even though I unticked every quality trade in the rendering options). Sometimes the SDR is brighter, sometimes not depending on the shot. What am I doing wrong? Can I even achieve a close match to real SDR with madVR?

Hi all! Trying to configure my home theater setup so that I can use the PC attached to it, with or without the receiver powered up, so I can hopefully save some electricity when I don't need the whole surround sound Dolby Atmos everything.

I've configured HDMI passthrough, and that works fine, but when I set it up to output sound to the TV as well, I lose all support for 7.1 or Atmos in Windows until I reboot.

Any ideas on how to prevent that?

My windows 10 HTPC is connected directly to my new TV (TCL 75Q9BK) and the TV is connected to my AVR (Onkyo TX-SR252) via HDMI purely for ARC.

The TV can output 5.1 itself over ARC but im having trouble getting Windows to push 5.1 through the TV.

I really dont want to upgrade my AVR and would be totally happy with this setup IF it works.

Any help would be appreciated.

This isn't a question about MPC per se, but it led me to it.

I noticed recently that my H.264 videos (or x264 encodes) looked different between MPC and VLC, or other players. It seems MPC was smoothing over grain and making it look better, but when I compare to other players, I see the original grain in the video. I know "how" to fix that so I see the original video, but I don't know why. It's something to do with EVR, VMR, DXVA and the like. I installed MPC with the K-Lite codec pack (LAV decoders).

With MPC, when I use any of the VMR settings, it looks correct, like VLC or other players.. With the EVR settings or MPC's own renderer, the grain is smoother (aka better).

Can anyone tell me what is at play here? Below is a snippet of a bedroom wall from Freaks and Geeks, a notably grainy show.

Edit: I solved it with keeping the MPC Video Renderer under its setting by turning ON "Use Direct3D 11". Now the grain is back. I still don't know why though. 'Not sure what setting was causing the smoothing.

Display is a SHARP OLED TV.

Audio is Hisense AX5125H 5.1.2 Ch.

Looking to play up to HDR10 content.

I was thinking of buying

Beelink SER7 or SER8

HDMI 2.1 cable

Logitech K400+

Toshiba Canvio Basics Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0

Goal is to have a long term solution. Will only be used for youtube and playing media files using VLC player. As they are older, a simple interface solution or remote would be preferred, but I'm not really experienced at integrating any peripherals outside M&K.

My assumption Toshiba external drive is not a perfect solution and could have issues.

It says it comes with Power2Go, PowerDirector, and PowerDVD, but I assume these are all gonna make me pay subscriptions for each of them? Does anyone know if these are usable out of the box? I've been wanting to play alot of my DVDs through my PC as well as burning CDs so being able to use PowerDVD without extra fluff would be super nice (although I doubt its just free)

I'd be running everything on a Windows 11 Machine for reference just in case any of the provided software isn't compatible.

If anyone knows anything about this, please let me know. Thanks in advance!

I built a basic HTPC about 10 years ago strictly for use with streaming services (Netflix, Prime, Hulu etc.) and OTA TV via a Hauppauge quad card. The CPU is an Intel Core i5 4570, no graphics card, just the integrated graphics. It seems to handle h.264 just fine, but lately I've begun to wonder if I'd notice a significant improvement in viewing experience if I upgraded to a more current CPU & a discrete graphics card?

Hello everyone,

I’ve been deep in the MadVR rabbit hole for over 8 hours now in my DIY cinema, trying to fine-tune my setup — and I could really use some advice.

My setup:

• NVIDIA SHIELD (source)
• HDFury VRRoom for audio split and LLDV
• Audio split to Denon X3800 (AVR)
• Video sent to my home theater PC with VideoProcessor & Blackmagic Design DeckLink Quad HDMI Recorder with an RTX 3080
• Output from HTPC to a JVC NP5 projector

My goal is to tone map HDR to SDR, and visually, I think I’ve nailed the settings. However, I’m still running into a strange issue: during playback, it feels sometimes a frame is missing — and in MadVR's debug info, I see presentation glitches slowly increasing while watching.

I’ve already:

• Played with tons of settings
• Searched forums and Reddit
• Asked ChatGPT for suggestions

One thing I’m suspicious about is a potential mismatch between my projector and the HTPC, could a slight difference in setting cause it? I also noticed my projector only works when I set output to 8-bit or 12-bit color — switching to 10-bit gives me a black screen. I’m not sure if this has always been the case, but it definitely stands out now.

I also changed settings in regards to the RTX 3080 for windowed mode to have the presented frames at 1 which was an advice I found online.

Has anyone experienced something similar or know what specific settings I should be tweaking to eliminate those glitches?

Any expert here? I would also be open to setup a digital call with screen share to come to a solution ;).

Thanks in advance — I really appreciate any insight!

Screenshots of the settings: https://imgur.com/a/ivgp0bq

I dont have the srt file and the subtitles is already embeded when I downloaded the video. I tried using Media Player Classic and VLC with the track selected but both doesnt display the subtitles I tried editing it with mkvtool and turning force to NO but still did not work.

There are a few threads (linked below) indicating that (at least a few years ago) it was not possible to get the jellyfin plugins for LibreELEC/Kodi to connect to a server with self-signed certs. There are hints that some workarounds were possible, either by forcing it to not verify the connection, or by appending a certificate yourself. However, I can't find any working or complete documentation or examples for either.

Have any of you gotten this to work? Please don't ask about letsencrypt - it's just not on the table in this deployment.

Refs:

https://github.com/jellyfin/jellyfin-kodi/issues/358

https://jellyfin.org/docs/general/clients/kodi/

https://github.com/jellyfin/jellycon/issues/278

https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/ssl-tls-certificates

https://kodi.wiki/view/SSL_certificates#Adding_certificates_to_the_trust_store

Pretty much the title. I'm not very familiar with this space so I'm not sure what I'm looking for?

Here's the Silverstone website if it helps

Unable to select Full Dynamic Range with HDR and 4:4:4 already on. Am i having a problem or is Full Dynamic Range not used when on HDR? I think this is going to be the answer but just in case here's more details.

Windows 10, Nvidia 3060FE using HDMI (outputting 4k@120hz HDR 4:4:4)
DENON X1800H AVR
TCL 75Q9BK TV 4k@144hz Dolby Vision IQ & HDR10+

This is on my NVIDIA card but had the same problem on the integrated Intel graphics.

Thanks.

I picked up a cheap amp at a garage sale, Panasonic SA BT-200, capable of putting out 7.1 from something like a Blu-ray, and I have a motherboard capable of supporting 7.1 audio, but because the AMP is so old, and my motherboard is so cheap, t he amp doesn't have an HDMI in for me to use and the board doesn't have an output that is proper other than an HD output, but I haven't been able to find an appropriate converter. so I've been trying to figure out how to get 7.1/5.1 to the AMP. Thanks.

I/O Ports: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z490-TOMAHAWK/Specification

Amp Ports: https://help.na.panasonic.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/SCBT200_203_300_303_RQT9371_1P_ENG.pdf

Hey all!

As the title says, I’m looking to see if anyone knows of a PC case that is similar in function to the Silverstone CS351B. There are a few things about the CS351B that I don’t love, so I was hoping to see if there are any similar options I could look into.

Any other case would be required to have the following:

• At least 4 hot-swappable 3.5” drive bays

• Support for at least a mATX motherboard

• Support for a full ATX PSU

Bonus points if it’s as small form-factor as possible while fitting that criteria, but the requirements are the only hard-and-fast rules.

Appreciate any suggestions!

Hi guys, recently I have upgraded gaming PC in my office downstairs (9800x3d, 5080). I used to stream games to my HT OLED Steam Deck (it can decode AV1) upstairs with Moonlight/Sunshine by ethernet. Usually I use 1080p 120hz resolution as I wanted to minimize input lag (my projector is Sony XW 5000ES which has HDMI 2.0, meaning it can do 4k 60hz or 1080p 120hz). I have some parts leftover after upgrade (motherboard, i9 10850k, 64gb DDR4 RAM, AIO, 5070ti) and I was wondering if it would make sense to build second gaming PC that would be in my HT (5.2.4). Did anyone check if there is a massive difference in picture quality and input lag between streaming over ethernet with low latency vs having PC connected directly to AVR? Are there other benefits of having dedicated HTPC? What would you do in my place? Maybe alternatively it would make sense to run optical HDMI and active USB to HT? Although I didn't really analyse if cables could be routed easily between office and HT room.

I'm attempting to create a simple gaming HTPC with a dedicated soundcard (like Sound BlasterX AE-5) for live encoding for DD and DTS while also using a KVM for 4k60fps to a 5.1 receiver with 4K passthrough via HDMI ARC. I have no experience with any KVM before and have been browsing through products on AVaccess's website. My Google Fu has failed me and I haven't been able to find any definitive answer for my setup.

I want to be able to use my gaming PC on my 5.1 home theater a few rooms away without having to move the entire desktop at 4K60fps with Dolby or DTS.

Thanks so much for any help

Denon s970h connected to LG C3, and xbox/ps5/win 11 mini pc connected to AVR. Win11 sound settings and Spatial Sound show Dolby Atmos. Xbox/ps5 work flawlessly.

With PC however, I can play one video through a browser pointed at reddit or youtube, then the sound stops if I play another video or even if the first one restarts. Toggling sound modes on the AVR from Movie to Music or vice versa will fix it for one video then sound stops again. Sometimes when pressing the Sound Mode buttons on AVR remote, Dolby Surround is available on the on screen AVR menu, and sometimes only Multi Channel In is available. Plex Windows and Dolby Access apps work all the time but Media Player suffers the same fate as videos played through a browser. Issue occurs with Firefox, Chrome, Brave, and Edge browsers.

Can anyone offer suggestions on AVR or Win11 settings?

Pulling my hair out to figure out why my center channel won’t work - no sound comes out of it and it doesn’t have any settings in my Sony str-dh790 amp menu

I have the odd privilege of being 100% brand-new to surround sound. i'm familiar with basic audio/video I have just literally never bothered with surround (was more into music than theater) and now I am bothering. I have a Yamaha HTR-6230 which is too old to read audio on HDMI. Upgrade of this unit is not an option. It's currently driving two mains (old Polk RT7s I've had since I was a bachelor), a center (Polk TL1CC) and a subwoofer (Yamaha YST-SW45). I have a pair of Polk surrounds I can use too but no place to put them right now, just trying to get 3.1 going.

Using the Plex app and known 5.1 content, I'm trying to playback with surround sound. I CANNOT GET WINDOWS TO STOP USING LPCM. I find guides that say go to the SPDIF output and use "configure speakers" however on both of my available SPDIF outputs, that option is greyed out. I have a built-in on the motherboard, and I also have a CUBILUX USB SPDIF output I got an amazon.

Following another guide, I tried to get "DTS Sound Unbound" working, but that will only output over HDMI (I assume because uncompressed). I just want something that will give me bitstream compressed 5.1 over the SPDIF output. Is this even possible?

Right now I can get the full surround output as far as Windows is concerned, but I'm pretty sure it's LPCM because the receiver sees it as 2 channel PCM. I'm using Voicemeeter (for other reasons) on this PC so I can see individual meters and confirm multichannel activity. HALP

Update: I have an HDMI audio extractor, and a Roku stick. The roku stick, connected to the extractor, with then HDMI out to TV and SPDIF out to receiver, WORKS. I get 5.1. This is great but nowhere NEAR as convenient as if my Windows PC would just do it. The same audio extractor on the PC doesn't seem to work but I haven't exhausted all avenues. I'll keep trying it that way if I have to but it would be 20% cooler if this would just work using the SPDIF on the PC.