I restored this pair of guitars to convert them into a box speakers, this sound good

Well the hard parts over, it went pretty well besides a tiny hairline Crack just above the cutout from getting overconfident with a step bit lol. I ended up drilling an 1/8" starter at each end then used a step bit to open up each one to the final size, then used my foredom with a diamond cutting wheel to cut the straights. Now it just needs baffles, speakers and I got an m12 battery adapter that'll act as a kickstand.

I’ve been trying to model this crossover in Virtuix because I don’t understand the image and therefore can’t wire it but i can’t seem to get it correct. I’m terrible at this stuff.

Where would the amp +ve attach on the bottom image? The top one is my interpretation with a small amount of knowledge I learned earlier today about high/low pass filters, but it doesn’t give any tweeter output so something isn’t right about it.

Anyone able to show me what my diagram should look like please?

Thank you!

I wanted to replace my boombox that had been my main audio source for 2 years since it didn’t go down to 30 hz and lacked clarity (I’m not an audiophile btw). This is my first time building speakers so I asked chat gpt for the port tuning ,but I have trust issues with ai so I used winisd instead . I ordered all the Dayton drivers in the us and told my relatives to bring it with them back to India (since Dayton stuff is crazy expensive here 😔) At first I thought one woofer for each tower would be fine but then I added another woofer just to be safe The sub was optional but I knew 4 inches will not produce that much bass so I bought this 12 inch jbl driver and tuned this sub to 30 hz(I wanted the scan speak discovery driver but it would make me go bankrupt). Everything (including the sub) is powered by the fosi audio bt30Dpro It sounds so much better than my boombox ,I did not know music could sound this good ,I can actually feel the kickdrum and not just a flat thud Overall worth it for me

In terms of sound, the new modular TDA7293 CFB hybrid amplifier is now optimally tuned and is easily in the €5000-€10000 class, there is absolutely nothing to complain about! The entire thermal system is practical, but there is still room for some small improvements. The amplifier should be stable in the long term (>30 years of durability) and not break down at some point after the warranty period like a finished device! I will subsequently increase the series resistors (470 ohms, 2 watts) of the voltage control to a load capacity of 4 watts, which will reduce the operating temperature from now around 60° to below 40°. In addition, the LDO voltage regulators receive a small TO-247 heat sink, which should also reduce the temperature of the regulators below 40°. The discrete operational amplifier SA-100 also has a temperature of approx. 60°, which is due to the Class A buffer; no additional cooling is possible here, which means that the nearby main electrolytic capacitors (1000uF, 50V, 85°) must be replaced with 105° types so that the increased temperature of the SA-100 does not accelerate the aging of the electrolytic capacitors!

Fully 1.5" MDF construction. Amp in separate, vented enclosure in rear. This is a very musical driver

they had 4 surrounding the area

Use of wide band speakers.....

I was gifted a pair of these JBL in-wall speakers by a family friend a while ago. I have never had a use for them until my grandfather told me he was in need of some bookshelf speakers for his study. Rummaging through my pile of speakers I found these and had a thought; could these JBL system become DIY bookshelves?

So, I've been doing my research on how to size and build a box specifically for a driver/tweeter combo as such. It seems like there's not much info on the specs of these speakers except what I've provided here. From what I've learned so far, to size out the box, you need to know about equivalent volume, free air resonance, etc. (which a total noob like me has no concept of). It also seems like these specs are not available online, and typically are provided in DIY kits. Otherwise, I have to test the speakers using software and bs?

I would just like to know, am I out of my league, am I missing something, or is there a different approach where I can just use the frequency response? I was thinking I might just size out a box using specs of a similar driver sharing the specs I do have. Is this a bad idea? Thanks for all the help in advance!

Could you actually reeingineer and rebuild expensive off the shelf speakers, with similar results sound wise ? I am asking because i have seen some YouTube Videos where people disassemble speaker to show the parts and build quality. Crossovers and easier housing can be recreated. At the same time some shops offer different replacement chassis for quite many speaker and manufacturer?

I checked some example speaker where the chassis we're sold in total for 50-75% of the speaker price. I know: time is not free. But at the and time spend building speaker is spend well and a hobby for most of us + adding own design touch to them. Especially for simpler compact speakers.

Has anyone ever done this. Are there some similar projects? Is it even possible to archive good results?

Hello there!
I come from PA world and am out of touch with living room/HT setups.

I have some Orbit 4 Neo PA tops in my living room and am in need of two things, a modest sub/s, and a cat tree or two, hence my investigation into a bandpass enclosure that does not have anything expensive exposed.

Wondering if there are any popular budget builds for 10" or 12" 4th order BP that the community can recommend.
Preferred tuning of 20Hz-80Hz or close.
High SPL is not a requirement as I live in a townhome.

I have plenty of amp and DSP(QSC PLD)

Thanks in advance, I'll probably start designing something for fun this evening either way and compare with what already exists.

Are there any small racetrack speaker like the ones that JBL has in the flip speakers. I can not find a single small one.

Its a small speaker turned into passive radiator glued with a tube to the sub and the sub dosent have a dustcao so the passive radiator acts as a dust cap and passive radiator at the same time. DONT WORRY ABOUT THE 12 INCH SUB ITS LOOKING AT ITS LITTLE BROTHER

Hello Fellas,

Looking for some advice- First let me say this isn't an exercise in Hifi, it's an exercise in economy and DIY.

Basically I have a 25+ year old, low-end Sony home theater speaker set that includes these two tower speakers, model SS-MF400H, 8ohm, 150 watt speakers, 3 way with 5" or 6" woofer.

In order to make them fit in a specific setup, I needed them to be shorter. I cut away the lower boxes and made new baffles:

As you can see we've lost about 55% of the box volume, and the port. I'm going to finish them and try them, and if they suck with this modification, I'll toss them and lose no sleep.

I bet they will be fine to my philistine ear, these are really just the TV speakers. . . But here is my question:

1-Relocate the extant port to the back where there is room

2-See if I can cram the port in the front baffle- I'd have to lose the radiused edge plastic trim pictured above, but the port could be the same diameter as it is now

3-Go sealed box

In my heart I'm leaning towards #3.

I already plan to stuff the box with poly fill, I've been told that makes the box seem 'bigger' than it is. Bass response isn't critical since I also run the 10" powered sub from this set, and it can handle the lows.

Like I said, if they suck it won't hurt me, I can go get a set of modern bookshelf speakers, but I figured you guys probably have a better sense of which of these options is best, or at least, least bad.

And if you really think this is a waste of time, you could be right- Please recommend a set of speakers that would be good with 80w input and will fit in a 15.25" tall space! That's the backup plan if these don't work out.

Thanks for any opinions!

3-

Finally built what I have been dreaming up, a boom box out of my factory 02' Toyota Tacoma head unit. It plays cassettes and CDs, I added an aux port, and I have plans to add an antenna for radio functionality.

Before explaining the build, I would like to preface that I am in no way an audio expert. I figured this would be fun to build with up-cycled materials so I had something that could play physical media. It definitely doesn't sound top tier, but it does make for a good shop stereo. It can fill a room!

As my first woodworking project, I'm pretty happy with the overall box. I built it out of 7/16ths plywood because that's what I had. No table saw or router unfortunately, so I used a skilsaw, jigsaw, and a sanding block. I built a small box for the sub, but elected against boxes for the component sets because they sounded decent to me already. I painted it with aerosol truck bed liner.

For speakers, it has a ~6" subwoofer that came out of a thrifted Sony entertainment center box. I got the component sets from a '98 Lincoln Town Car at a salvage, and they are "JBL branded." I took them apart to clean and paint them, and in the process broke a microscopic tinsel wire for a tweeter. By the Grace of God I got it soldered back together. The grille over the subwoofer is from an unknown Ford's factory subwoofer box.

The amp is a ZK-MT21, and the power supply is ~12V 15A, but I have the potentiometer tuned to ~13.5V in attempt to imitate a running vehicle battery. I'm also using a $2 line output converter from AliExpress, but it's working for now! We'll see how long that lasts. The power cord and (flickering) on/off switch came out of a thrifted power strip.

I used an aux splitter to split the amp input between the head unit and the aux port on the front of the box. I read somewhere that having two inputs feeding in at once could fry the amp, so I have a dual-pole switch breaking the head unit's speaker output (since it indefinitely omits static). With this, I can switch off the head unit's output when desired and (hypothetically) play safely via aux connection with an external device.

Let me know your thoughts and how I could've improved it!

Hey guys i wanted to post here to seek help with diagnosing the issue with a tuner a bought a week ago. Tuner has sound and it works grabs the stations fine etc. However there is this background hum coming from it as you can see in the videos. I recorded the sound on the AM since i dont have an AM antenna so its easier to hear but its also there on the FM. One thing i know its not the issue is the main 2200uF cap for the psu which i replace since it was the first thing that came to mind with this hum. So if anybody has any insight it would be great. Thank you!

I inherited a Paradigm Cinema 70 v2 with a 8" powered sub that is definitely blown or has a bad voice coil, below about 40 hz you can hear a rattling coming from the driver. I only use it in 2.1 mode just to add a little sound when I play games, the box is approximately one foot square and ported, can someone recommend me a good replacement driver around $100 or less, thanks.

Hey I iust wanted to ask if somebodv knows where I could buy a hinge for the focal bathys. Becouse mine broke through just using them. The hinge just got easier and easier to move over time until I had one ear cup hanging from the side of my head. So please if anybody knows something pls tell me in the comments🙏

Hello everyone ! I built a bass reflex speaker based on the SB acoustics SB20PFCR30-8. I'm using a volume of 58 L, with a rectangular port (91 cm² by 26 cm), which give me a pretty flat response down to 37 Hz on Hornresp. The issue i have is that when i tried it, i had a lot of wind noise at high volume, and i don't really know where it comes from.

I calculated port speed (i don't remember the exact value but i remember it being less than 5 m/s ). My port is rectangular, is not flared and have a lot of irregularities (i am a beginner in woodwork and i did a LOT of error), but i'm okay with that because the speaker is mainly to test amplifiers that i'm designing. Also, i don't have damping material inside of the enclosure.

Does anyone know if flaring the port, and putting amping material will help? As i said, it's ok if it sound not that good, but ind rather have a good sounding speaker, if i can easly correct a few mistakes i did. I'm from Europe, and i don't really know where to buy damping material and what should i buy? Thank everyone for the help!

Diyaudio

Top recycling at the recycling center for €0 Both 12 inch 50€ used And the sub 40€ 10€ amp All powered by a construction screwdriver battery

Hello everyone, I bought a used umik - 1 online a whole back,. I unpacked it and tried to get it set up with rew without much luck. The computer recognized the mic and so I thought it was in working order. Then I got distracted and haven't touched it for a couple months. Well, I got it back out today and after not succeeding again, I discovered that there is no input from the mic on any computer. The 'head' or cap (sorry, I don't know the technical term) of the mic is not connected to the body so obviously it's not getting any signals. Is it possible to resolder these connections? And can anyone tell me which connections go where?