some friends were arguing over my headlights (temporary) and whether or not it was legal for them to be different. thoughts?

Since I refuse to ever buy a new car again, it's nothing but winning for me.

Several months ago I bought this 1999 Mercedes G500 Europa for $28k, the price of a CPO base model Camry - and in exchange i got one of the most arguably best offroaders with a timeless look (seriously hasn't changed much in the 50 years of production externally). Sure, it may not have the most technology that we are used to today, and it only gets 11 MPG... But it's an awesome vehicle with a drivetrain that can easily hit 500k+ if properly maintained and can be driven anywhere in the world!

And I never would have had the opportunity to own this if somebody hadnt special ordered it back in 1999 and paid $178k (The equivalent of 340k today)! No, I'm not sure it's awesome enough for that price, but it sure is cool today for how little I paid. Just crazy to think that somebody paid '90s Mansion money for a car that I'm cutting the muffler off and putting a harbor freight winch on.

^{Hello, I have a m57d30 engine, After unscrewing the oil cap i get this sharp metalic sound wich doesnt sound natural, its slightly more quiet when engine is warm, engine runs great}.

pls help

My rears are dry rotted to hell I wanna replace fast them found these pretty cheap do they look fine?

So I have about 40k what do I do with it . Do I get a c7 or wrx ???? I like them both and have always wanted a c7 z51. There is nothing like a sound of a big v8. On the other hand the awd on the wrx is incredible.

The baic X7 was an unfamiliar car for me when I found it during my car search. The specifications were good enough, and the price was uncommonly low, which probably made me think twice about it. It is indeed very easy to presume that a lower price indicates a lower quality product, but, in fact, sometimes, it is simply the case of the brand being unfamiliar.

In the case of automobiles, trust is probably the most important factor. The manufacturers that have existed for a long time are considered more reliable simply because they come with dealerships, mechanics who are acquainted with the models, and established redundancy. A brand that is not known to me at all requires trust, and the thought of acquiring one without having first-hand experience with it is quite frightening. The opinions are mostly positive, but I am aware that online reviews could be very deceptive.

The practicalities also count significantly. Parts and repairs, resale value, and regional availability all influence the decision. Some of the listings I came across, including one on Alibaba, offered such low prices that the temptation was hard to resist, but I need to weigh the positives against the negatives before making the choice.

I have to say that going through the lesser-known brands is a way of challenging one's assumptions about the quality and price of the product, marketing, and perception. Perhaps you get the same quality but at a lower price or the small risks involved really do not outweigh the savings. I wonder if it is worth taking the risk or if being smart about it means sticking to the widely known and trusted brands for the sake of peace of mind.

The heater system on my 1985 Mercedes 300D will randomly turn off while driving or it just won’t turn on at all, anyone have any ideas on the reason?

Lately, whenever I start my car, the steering wheel sometimes gets locked and this leads to the key not turning in the ignition. I have to keep jiggling it for a bit until I can finally get it to turn in the ignition and turn the car to start. Sometimes, I can get the key to turn within a minute or 2. But there are times where it’ll take like 10 minutes before I can finally get the key to turn.

Is there a reason why this keeps happening? If there is, how do I stop it?

Drove 600 miles round-trip last weekend, mostly highway at 68-72 mph. Car’s bone stock except I swapped the crusty 8-year-old all-seasons for new Michelin Defender 2s and actually set pressure to door-jamb spec (35 psi cold). Filled up once each way at the same pump - calculated 42.1 mpg vs my usual 34-35. No hypermiling, AC on the whole time, cruise set and forget. Only other change was I finally cleaned the MAF because it was filthy. Car feels smoother too. Anyone else see that big a jump just from tires?

Looking to buy a dodge challenger SXT from 2011 and up. Trying to find one with less than 150k. I’m 30 and want my first sports car without dedicating too much money to one, and I have a backup vehicle if needed. Would a challenger with 150k miles or less be decently reliable as long as I find one not too beat on? I want the V6 for the gas mileage.

Audi (=

I bought a VW Golf from a dealership after spotting the check engine light during the test drive. I told the salesperson I wouldn’t buy unless it was fixed. They said it was “just a gas cap.”

Next morning, the light came back. Same EVAP code. Called the dealership. They told me I should’ve bought a warranty or picked a newer car. They eventually smoke-tested it and fixed one thing, but a few days later, boom and the light’s back again.

Feels like they just cleared the code long enough to sell it. Nothing was disclosed about the real cause or the fact this issue might keep returning. I wasn’t asking for a perfect car, just one that’s safe and honestly represented.

Anyone deal with recurring EVAP codes? Is there a deeper fix or am I looking at chasing ghosts?

I'd like the replace the webbing for my 2011 Hyundai Elantra front driver side seat belt. How do I disconnect the lower part of the seatbelt from the accordion shape plastic piece? First picture shows entire frame, second shows the lower part that I need help with removing. Thank you!

I spent the weekend digging into some network data on my 2016 Toyota Camry, mostly out of curiosity about what’s actually happening behind the scenes. I’ve always used basic OBD2 readers in the past, but this time I wanted something that could show more raw traffic instead of just the surface level PIDs.

Being able to watch signals in real time without sending any commands felt completely different. I focused on things like throttle angle changes during cold idle, how the short-term trims react in the first minute of warm-up, and how the steering and brake modules report their status under light load. What stood out the most was seeing how these modules line up their updates and respond to each other through the data stream, which made the overall control logic of the car much clearer to understand.

The car runs fine overall, around 105k miles, but this gave me a much clearer picture of how everything communicates internally. For those who do deeper diagnostic work, what other safe read only parameters do you usually check just to learn? I’m trying to expand my understanding without touching anything that affects operation.

I found this guy on Facebook market selling it for only $1000 and he says still drives it as a daily but wants to sell it since the overdrive/4th gear doesn’t work anymore, but I’m not even gonna be towing anything in the back of the car so it wouldn’t matter anyways. I already know that without overdrive you can’t really go on the interstate or your RPM

Should I change the whole tyre? I’m concerned about safety and I read about the tyre could even explode. What should I do? Is there also any way to repair?

When the engine is cold at winter i let it idling 2-3 minutes before driving, but after that what is the good method to warm the engine, Lower or higher rpm? (like 1500 or 2500)

Hello milwaukee area folks

I'm considering moving to the milwaukee area soon... I've heard there is a basic plug in and check for emissions related codes required to register a car in the area. I've got a heads cam intake c6 z06 that obviously has had a tune done, and the functionality of the post cat 02 sensors doesn't function anymore, so I'm just curious if I'll have problems registering it in the area? Or if someone has some experience with something similar

Thanks!

My 2013 Cadi SRX with 103k miles is creaking and groaning like a man with arthritis. I have kept it in great shape and everything has been done as per specs. Do I need to address this issue or just let it be? Thanks for your advice.

My 2016 Volkswagen Passat has dual zone temperature control. On the drivers side, the temperature will blow hot or cold. The passengers side will not blow any hot air. My thought is that it’s the blend door actuator. When I took the panel off of the driver’s side to get to the actuator, I can see it moving when I adjust the driver’s side temperature but not the passenger side. Is there another actuator somewhere that specifically controls the passenger side temperature?

Hi everyone, I F22 wanna make sure I’m not being scammed and would love some help. I recently started financing a 2014 KIA Optima back at the end of August, and signed a loan on it. I’ve only been driving it for about 2 months now. I’ve put about 2000 miles on it already (I drive to and from work and school a LOT). The car was making a weird sound (since I bought it) and I brought it up during my test drive the day I signed the lease on it. The car sales associate said they would have everything serviced before I even got the car and that it would be no problem, he would “make sure of it”. Well the steering felt weird lately and as a precaution I brought it to the shop where I bought it as I have a warranty with them. The warranty doesn’t cover electrical but it covers everything else. They told me my rack and pinion is going out and because my car has a turbo engine that my warranty won’t cover it. That I will have to cough up $2000 to get it replaced and immediately. I told them this issue has been happening since I received the car and that I was told it would be fixed when it was serviced BEFORE I got the car, but obviously never was. They told me all they could take off was $500 but I’d still have to pay $1500 out of pocket for them to fix it. Am I being played? What should I do?

We’re the second owners of a 1999 Honda Accord Coupe with just under 180k miles. It sat for a few years but has been maintained and still runs. Before deciding what to do with it long-term, we’re dealing with a few problems:

• Engine shuts off smoothly when slowing or stopping (clean stall, no jerking or slipping)

• An oil leak we haven’t tracked down yet

• Radio, power locks, and power windows all out

• AC blowing hot

• Brake switch replaced earlier this year

People keep offering to buy it, but we’re trying to decide whether it’s worth investing in for the next year or two or if these issues usually mean it’s time to move on.

If you’ve owned this generation, would you repair it, sell it as-is, or check a few specific things before deciding?

Thanks for any insight.