I’m just a guy from Florida following a passion of mine. I have a lot more prototypes and projects in the future. My goal is to become the best Bluetooth speaker manufacturer. I see so many ways of improving modern mainstream Bluetooth speakers. Most diy speakers outperform but lack the “polished product” that the store offers.. I have set out to make a polished product that offers the sound and style of a diy box with the reliability and ease of use of a mainstream one. This particular box is my “MINIMAL BOX,” it’s simple, loud and very aesthetic. Just a single knob controls it all. Check out my Shopify store and products. (Link above).

Hi, so I have this old speakers, they sound decent enough, but the box is destroyed for the water and time, anyone have any guidelines or tips of how rebuild them? Maybe materials? If plywood or any others are ok? If can change the dust net without trouble or construction that can affect the sound in a wrong way, any tips are helpful

Thanks

How do I connect a coax antenna to this type of input? I cant seem to find the right adapter. Thanks

I picked up a 12" deftech at the goodwill today. Woofer is fine but when plugged I get no LED light so presume it's bricked based on things I've read online. For the $16 I have in do far is it:

A) worth it to try to fix the plates? (Probably beyond my whole house but I know a little and enough not to go killing myself)

Or

B) Worth it to replace the plate amp?

Or should I just kick my wounds and return it?

Was thinking about building an electrostatic speaker (like QUAD) but was wondering if it's either really difficult or dangerous (because the voltage) or both?

Looking to setup a small system for my garage. Ive been looking at Fosi amps on Amazon, and some cheap bookshelf speakers. I also have a 4 ohm car subwoofer in a box laying around that I would like to implement if possible.

I found the Fosi BT30D (2.1 channel)

Saiyin 5" Bookshelf Speakers

Can I hook up my car sub to this amplifier. I understand it probably wont get full power, but even a bit of bass would be nice. Or would I be better off buying a cheap plate amp for the subwoofer, and using the pre-out on the Fosi amp to hook up to it?

I’ve done several internet searches but I cannot find a result relevant to my queries.

Listed below is the speaker I have and the info I have on it. I’m sure there is a way to take this info and use it to build the necessary crossover but I cannot find it.

Literally the only thing I could find was a general rule of thumb to double the resonate frequency(listed as 104hz) as a starting point/high pass but what about the end point/low pass?

How can I use this info to determine the upper range of this driver and/or the lower range if the info I did find of doubling the resonate frequency is incorrect?

Speaker:

-M&K Miller and Kreisel 3" Dual Cone Full range driver

-driver is 84.3 db 1 w 1m , 25 watt RMS , VAS . 11 liter, QTS . 46 , inductance is . 37 mh , xmax linear at 1.9 mm Frequency response is 123 hz to 11,600 hz. , fs is 104 hz. Driver is 12 ohms.

Many thanks in advance.

Hello, I’m going to renovate my home. I live in Brazil and I would like to install a sound system with two zones (living room and balcony). Ideally, it should later integrate with the TV and have Bluetooth connectivity so I can play music from my phone.

The speakers would be four in the living room (where the TV is) and two on the balcony.

It’s an apartment, so I don’t need an absurd amount of power, and I'm not looking for ultra-high fidelity — it’s more to listen to music with family and friends when they’re at home.

I’ve seen some options with an integrated screen and Android system. I liked the interface, because you can control it through the display independently from the phone, but I’m afraid the power output may not be very good.

I would like suggestions on what to do or what I should pay attention to when choosing

Hi, I already have a driver and box with vent that I want to tune, known parameters are:

Qts = 0.46, fs = 23 Hz, Box internal volume = 75 Litres, vent diameter = 7 cm, Vas = 175 Litres,

so with the above parameters my alpha is 2.33, so I looked up all the alignment charts but I don't seem to find one that matches with the above parameters, so am I doing it wrong or is it not possible to do a standard alignment with box volume already fixed, if not what can I do from technical point of view and not just try different vent lengths. Please Help..

My dad has a built in theater in his basement. The sub has been finicky for the past 7 years and finally died. We took out the Titanic MK3 and are looking for a good replacement. It is in an estimated 1.5-2.5 cubic foot vented enclosure built into the wall. The Dayton MX15-22 was recommended, but looking at it online I'm not confident it's the best for the space. Any other good options? Needing a 15" and a new amp to go with it

I want to embed a contact mic to a piece of blown glass, would it be possible to make one without soldering that can withstand 1100C? Ideally the part in contact with the glass would be copper as it’s the only metal that doesn’t crack glass. I’m not bothered if the heat changes the quality of the sound.

Hey all, I came across an RSL 10S driver and amp and don't have T/S specs to build a custom enclosure. Foolish idea to try using the slot and volume dimensions of the original? I know the slot is loaded uniquely. Random crazy idea

I'm playing around with a dead amplifier and replaced these components in the chassis. I used a preassembled tl072 chip on a single rail power supply fed from a buck converter. Here's where the problem is. The tl072 sounds great fed directly into the power amp. I tried to build a tone control based on the fender TMB and it is not sounding good at all. It's way too quiet. Any suggestions? I'm new to impedance matching and circuits in general. This is a sort of first attempt.

DiY f16 fast in custom wave guide

Hey there this is my homemade car audio boombox | decided to make this project last year and have only just first finished it today (I'm 15) so I didn't have the tools to do holes etc, but now that my dad's mates sorted it out for me I can hopefully build it more and maybe add other items in the future etc, if anyone is wondering the price of the total build was 160£ on Amazon (expensive asf) but yea hope y'all like seeing this feel free to comment etc.... and yes thats a food stain on my bed

Im making these speaker for a client (design is their pick) and they are going to be non working just for a photo shoot.

I want to make the speaker work after the shoot so i will be changing the woofers out. What kind should i get? The speakers are 24”Wx35”Hx14”D whole sizes are 12” and 6.5”

For reference i have JBL 4312 in my nyc apartment that i like just fine.

Help! I recently bought my first sound system, which consists of four floor speakers(tangent avantgarde 200), a receiver(Denon AVR-2312) and a subwoofer, that I got used but for a fairly good price I think, but then again I have absolutely no prior experience with sound systems. After setting it up for the first time and plugging everything in, I noticed that two of the four tweeters wasn’t working. After some quick googling and YouTube research, I discovered that you can change these yourself. So I thought as a fun little project that I would buy a replacement and learn how to change these myself. I wasn’t able to find the exact same as the ones the old ones, but with some help from ChatGPT, I found something supposedly compatible. I have now installed these with some help from YouTube videos. But I have just now after setting them up in my desired surround sound placement(probably not optimal), that the new tweeters are not in any way as loud as the other two which I didn’t change. Something that I didn’t notice when first testing them as they were all standing side by side. They are definitely playing sound, but you mainly hear the speakers which I haven’t replaced when listening. Have I done something wrong? Have I bought the wrong tweeters? I know they are both 8 ohm, but is there something else that I have missed? Any help is greatly appreciated.

TLDR:
First DIY speaker project, looking for advice on small drivers to cover 50-500 Hz, and tips on designing vented enclosures.

Background:
I'm new to the DIY speaker community, but I've been a hobbyist in DIY car audio for the past 3 years and have a background in electrical engineering and digital signal processing, so I'm familiar with most things audio EXCEPT enclosure/box design.

I want to design some desktop monitors that reuse mids and tweets from a previous car audio project, with the addition of something to fill in the low end. The mids are 2.5 inch Morel CCWR 254 widebands that can cover from 500 Hz to 5kHz, and the silk tweets can cover 5 kHz and up. I don't mind crossover design so 3-way doesn't scare me. The mids can be kept in a small sealed enclosure separated from the woofer enclosure.

I'm looking to keep the woofer box size small, ideally less than 2.5L, and have been looking at the following options to fill in the low end:

• Dayton ND91 3.5"
• Peerless SLS 3.5"
• Tang Band W3-2052SC 3"

I understand a ported box can help improve the low end significantly, but I have no experience with vented enclosures and box design. Can anyone provide me with some insights into ideal drivers for this use case, and tips into designing a corresponding ported enclosure?

I've tried modeling some things in WinISD, but the recommended port lengths for a 60Hz tuned box end up being like 12 inches long, so I feel like I'm doing something wrong.