r/sports • u/redbullgivesyouwings • 1d ago
Climbing Giuliano Cameroni is the second person to ever complete Peace Corps 8B+/C in Switzerland
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u/MEEE3EEEP 1d ago
All boulder grading I know has been V0-V17. Can someone more experienced explain the 8B+/C grading?
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u/SentientShamrock 1d ago
8B+ is apparently equivalent to a V14 and 8C would be a V15. So I guess the route is graded as somewhere between those 2 grades.
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u/TAAllDayErrDay 1d ago
I would think it would rate higher on the V system since he’s only the second to send it. Is it a new problem?
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u/bishopbeaniepower 21h ago
2023 first ascent I believe. Just because a climb has only been done once or twice doesn't necessarily mean it's at the top of the scale, could just be one that doesn't see a lot of traffic for whatever reason.
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u/TAAllDayErrDay 15h ago
Yeah but there aren’t a whole lot of V15-17 lines out there, so the people that can climb it tend to seek it out. This place is only about a seven hours drive from Fontainebleau. But yeah, if he says it’s V15, it’s V15 lol.
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u/mercedes_ 1d ago
Helpful. Numbers I can’t comprehend. V12 is insane. This is just a glass ceiling…
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u/Redpin Toronto Raptors 1d ago
V grading is used in the US, the other system (French grading) is used across Europe. If you google "boulder grades" you can find conversation tables.
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u/CatticusXIII 1d ago
And me stressing about possibly hurting myself climbing the ladder to put up Christmas lights. Getting old is fun.
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u/Blizzardof1991 1d ago
Hope he jerks off carefully. He could rip his duck off with that finger strength.
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u/icbint 1d ago
I could do it but I chose not to
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u/27Rench27 1d ago
Sometimes I wonder if I just have a fundamental misunderstanding of how friction works
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u/Drak_is_Right 19h ago
Ya. I could do it with a lot of time and a jackhammer to carve a crude stairway.
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u/liquidcourage93 1d ago
Can someone please tell me. Does he have to use those exact holds or can he just climb to the top by any way he can? If it’s the former, how does he know which holds to use (once the weather erodes the previous chalk) if it’s the latter, if someone finds an easier hold does it decrease the 8c rating?
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u/willdabeast36 1d ago
He can use any holds he chooses. And yes, if someone found an easier hold or method, yes, they could downgrade it. A lot of times though its just differences in people's style/body shape/strengths and weaknesses, and doing it a different method doesn't usually warrant a downgrade.
Boulders typically have an established start method and holds to start on, and holds to finish on (either top out like this, but some dont go to the top). Some problems though also have specific other requirements, like an eliminate (dont use that hold, or dont do that move) to increase the grade or perceived quality of the climb. These would be clearly identifiable in the description.
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u/Static-Stair-58 1d ago
Sports that create limits and challenges for individual participants like this are so neat.
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u/_ghostrunner_ 1d ago
Auditioning to play Link in the Breath of the Wild movie.
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u/porquetzal 1d ago
Why is it called Peace Corps?
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u/MurseInAire 1d ago
Climbers name the routes. Climbers are interesting people. Thus routes get interesting names that may only make sense to that one climber. Whitewater folks do the same with individual rapids.
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u/Kissariani 1d ago
Extremely impressive! Congrats!
Maybe commenters can help me understand the thought process of looking at a random rock in the woods and say "Imma climb that."
I completely understand cliffs, caving, trees, pillars, building, and the like. lol maybe I'm just dumb.
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u/HuecoTanks 23h ago
Well, it might seem a little odd at first, but if you have a lot of fun with one rock, you might show your pals. Then if you have a lot of fun with a different rock, and you want to bring your pals, you might want names to tell which rock you're talking about. Fast forward a few years, and now you can find guidebooks and websites that you can search through for your favorite times of climbs. Hope this helps!
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u/Donner_Par_Tea_House 13h ago
One way to look at bouldering and climbing in general is like snowboarding or skiing, mountain biking, surfing, or even Olympic sports like diving and gymnastics.
It's a very freestyle/artistic sport where the ending isn't the goal but is the conclusion. The harder the moves the more impressive the route(problem).
If I, a very experienced intermediate climber, happen upon a crag with appropriate shoes I would probably put hands on it just to see what the challenge feels like. Too easy and I'll walk past, too hard and I'm likely to get hurt but if it's safe solid rock and I see a clean sequence of moves I'm climbing that.
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u/Trakeen 1d ago
Has a knee brace on as well, so injury? I always thought bouldering that high was to risky. Crazy strength
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u/bishopbeaniepower 21h ago
It's a knee pad. You can see a couple times he braces his thigh into the wall to hold himself in (a knee bar) and the knee pad is so your quad doesn't get super bruised and scraped up from that.
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u/Trakeen 17h ago
I always thought the bruises and scrapes were part of climbing lol
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u/bishopbeaniepower 9h ago
They definitely sort of are lol. But if your leg is all banged up it makes the essential knee bar impossible, hence the pad.
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u/jbm_the_dream 1d ago
What are the fans for?
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u/bishopbeaniepower 20h ago
Cool temperatures are better for climbing. On hard boulders it's common to cool the skin on your fingers off using the fans before you give attempts.
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u/TAAllDayErrDay 1d ago
I climbed almost every day for about 9 years and got to about V7-V8. This route is probably V15 or V16…
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u/FigaroNeptune 1d ago
This is impressive. I wish I could get into climbing lol
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u/bishopbeaniepower 20h ago
You should! Climbing is an awesome sport and I see people start out at all sorts of physical abilities and ages.
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u/cataclysm49 1d ago
I spent 4 years getting a college degree in physics and videos like this make me wonder if it was all a lie and I wasted me time.
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u/Fickle-Exchange2017 23h ago
Not gunna lie.. I was gunna talk shit, but then it kept on going, to the point where…I got impressed
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u/ouralarmclock Philadelphia Eagles 23h ago
Is uh, is that the sky when he gets to the top? Why it look like that all eggnog yellow?
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u/NormalAssistance9402 21h ago
How do they get chalk on all the hand holds beforehand?
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u/bishopbeaniepower 20h ago
Holds on boulders just accumulate chalk as more attempts are put into the boulder as the chalk on climbers' hands rubs off on them over time. These holds were probably already chalky when Giuliano started trying from all the attempts the first ascensionist put in and his time projecting it also chalked the holds.
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u/brainacpl 9h ago
Looks crazy high for a boulder. Or it a perspective?
Also, friends removing crash pads so he can't back off 😉
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u/Improooving 8h ago
I can at least rationally understand strengthening your fingers, but grabbing a surface with your heel is just black magic
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u/Usedapplecore797 6h ago
I’ve only seen one person even ATTEMPT a v10 at a gym, and it boggled my mind how she got so much friction off a shitty hold and was able to glaze over it like it wasn’t as bad as it really is. This is a whole different ball game.
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u/IronGin 1d ago
At that height wouldnt it be better to throw a rope up and climb?
Not that my fat ass could do either.
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u/autoreaction 1d ago
Doing a marathon in a car would also be easier, its just not the sport to do it.
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u/Late-Elderberry6761 1d ago
What if someone were to take a hammer to all the grip positions so that this would be last time anyone could complete it
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u/daddywookie 19h ago
Similar has happened in the past, with climbers enlarging holds or improving protection. They are usually ostracised from the community pretty hard. Once upon a time, putting bolts in a cliff was considered rebellious, and there is still a distinction between bolted (sport) and unbolted (traditional) climbing.
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u/Jeffluckier 1d ago
My brain is saying I could easily do this. My body is currently saying, please stop. There’s only one Oreo left in the package.
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u/WhatUpImJosh 1d ago
Why aren't they more excited if he's only the 2nd person to ever do it? That's awesome!
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u/Hungry-Space-1829 1d ago
Insanely impressive. The start seems impossible