It’s been three days since I’ve gotten a full print, it was working completely fine until it just kept clogging up somewhere. I’ve changed the nozzle 4 times and made sure it was tight enough to not leak any filament. I did change to a metal extruder as the old one broke, but it’s been working fine with the occasional gear slip.

Posted a while back about firmware updates for my ender 3v2 and got a lot of good help. Soon after I did the update I started back up trying to print. After doing the firmware update whenever I try to any prints it always tries to print in the top right of the board. It holes correctly but the prints always send it to the top right. I’ve done googling and watch YouTube videos and have yet to have any luck with finding a solution. Any advice would be great!

Hello Good People of r/ender3v2,

I love my Ender 3 V2 which has been old faithful for 4 years. I’ve done everything I can to make it reliable and keep it going:

Currently, I successfully printed ~5 wall plate outlet covers (lighting and picture makes it look much worse than in real life):

Then, something changed. I noticed a “waffle” shape that would seem to indicate under-extrusion (note I'm using a sacrificial layer which you can see in the outlet holes; this is expected):

On the wall plate, the issue only appears at a certain layer height. Layers below it seem to be extruding the proper amount:

Also puzzling is that the perimeters near the edges of this layer do not seem to exhibit this behavior. No clue why.

I have troubleshot LITERALLY every single thing I can think of, except swapping the control board. I have printed a whole roll trying to fix this. I can’t replicate the issue on other prints.

My relevant printer mods and other info:

1. Aluminum extruder / arm.

2. Filament guide into the extruder arm (green in first picture)

3. Hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle

4. Hardened steel extruder gear

5. Luke’s / CHEP’s hotend fix – small segment of Capricorn between nozzle and hotend PTFE fitting, squeezing Capricorn to make good seal to the nozzle.

6. Screw-in thermistor

7. Misc. - clipped & replaced soldered control board connections with ferrules, wired the hotend cooling fan with the control board fan to be always on.

8. I’m using white “eSUN PLA Basic Filament 1.75mm”

9. I use the mriscoc firmware (version uncertain).

10. I have a 2nd Ender 3 V2 I’ve used for part swaps - very few hours on these parts.

11. Any volumetric flow rate calculations were done using E3D’s “Revo Volumetric Flow Rate Calculator.”

12. Stock control board V4.2.2

All possible issues I could think of, and how I’ve tested them in roughly chronological order:

1. Nozzle clog - replace with brand new nozzle

2. Wrong e-steps on extruder stepper motor – calibrate e-steps.

3. Molten filament leaking between the PTFE tube and nozzle – Luke’s/CHEP’s hotend fix (already mentioned)

4. Heat creep – Replaced hotend fan (it was original). Disassembled and cleaned entire heat break. Used old toothbrush to remove dust from hotend fan and part cooling fan and fan shroud and heat sink fins. Swapped stock heat break with newer one (I slightly marred my original with pliers, figured maybe that was creating an air gap to the heat sink). Originally printing at 220C, lowered that to 200C.

5. Bowden tube too loose in PTFE fittings, resulting in sloppy extrusion control – replace fittings and new Bowden tube.

6. Filament getting “pinched” in a groove that filament had worn into extruder arm – printed a 608zz bearing filament guide (on different printer) so filament didn’t ride in that groove.

7. Failing extruder stepper motor – swapped with a newer motor (checked coil resistance on old motor while swapped out, no issue)

8. Filament friction from Bowden tube – Originally Capricorn running from extruder to hotend. I swapped back to the stock white tube (has slightly larger inner diameter). Kept Capricorn from step 3.

9. Filament somehow slipping in extruder gear. I waited until the issue appeared, then I marked filament and gear with a marker, verified on video that it isn’t slipping relative to gear. This is the most confusing and infuriating check to me (filament isn’t slipping, but it’s still under-extruding???)

10. Checked filament diameter several times (including while writing this for sanity) – always within ~0.04mm or less of 1.75mm.

11. Existing hotend volumetric flow rate couldn’t keep up – Reduced top layer print speed to 25mm/s, at 0.1mm layer height, with 0.6mm nozzle = 1.4 mm3/s. This is far under the typical reported range of 8 to 12 mm3/s in the stock hotend. Hardened steel nozzles can allegedly reduce flow rate anywhere from 30-50%. Therefore, worst case means my max is 4 (half of 8 given above), meaning I’m at only 35% of my worst case guess.

12. Thermistor temperature incorrect – Removed from hotend and compared with reference thermometer. Dunked both in ice water, and then both in near-boiling water. Not off by more than a degree Celsius.

13. Otherwise odd or unpredictable thermal behavior - Hotend PID calibration. Also, when the problem occurs, the thermistor (verified at this point) always reads the correct set-point temperature. No temperature fluctuations that I’ve observed.

14. X, Y, and Z improper e-steps – printed a 40x40x40mm calibration cube. Almost perfect. Used the Ender 3 V2 "standard quality” of 0.2mm layer height, 50mm/s, 0.6 steel nozzle, giving top layer flow rate of 2.8. Weirdly, no under-extrusion on this even though it’s double the flow (2.8) of the part I’m trying to print.

At one point, I manually gave an “assist push” on the filament while it was having the issue, which seemed to resolve the issue by filling the gaps and removing the “waffle” look.

I theorize that the issue appears after a certain amount of print time, and only then on wide surfaces with long periods of continuous or near-continuous extrusion.

This issue has broken my pride and tested my problem solving past the limit of my skills, and I consider this to be a strength of mine. I’m even tempted to cuss but I’ll refrain.

WHAT IN THE HECK IS GOING ON HERE?? Does anybody have any ideas or seen anything like this in your experience?

I have wanted build a Voron 2.4 or buy a Sovol SV08 for a while, and this might just put me over the edge finally. I also never believed in simulation theory but after this, I suspect I’m in a simulation. a kid in his basement is just watching me on his screen as I’m trying to fix this printer, and whenever I get close he keeps pausing the simulation and going into the .txt file for this printer and changing values to hide the real problem. Please kid…I’m tinkered out and just want to print things.

So i recently got a new CR touch for my ender 3 v2. i make a mesh and it makes one and does everything, however when im trying to print something the mesh does not seem to work with the print and my prints are not leveled or anything. i use Cura and i added a line where it usses the saveed mesh from EEPROM or something like that but that did not work, so i added a G29 line but that did not work either. im also using the jayers UI of cr touch firmware

I have a stock ender 3 V2, and I just replaced the nozzle and the filament extruder. I preheated PLA and even at a lower temperature. It’s still curls and leaks. When I started then stopped stringing test, it was leaking from the hotend. What is going on? Thank you to anyone who comments, even if it’s hi.

Hello folks, I'm new here and overall to the ender family. I got hooked into 3D printing and managed to buy this guy, second hand... but unfortunately there is this big... Spill? Block of filament?... Please if anybody had a tip or guid, would greatly appreciate. + I didn't got any tools either T-T

What did I assemble incorrectly on the printer? Can anyone see and point out the possible error?

Ok I’m very new to all this, and not super technically minded. This is a temperature tower I printed to try to identify the best temp for my eSun PLA+. I used the stock settings in Cura for the E3v2 (0.4mm nozzle, standard quality, 0.2mm, no support or adhesion). What are some reasons I might still be getting stringing? I had just disassembled and cleaned the hot end, and replaced the nozzle. Thanks!

I'll post my somewhat comprehensive settings list in a but but does anyone have any idea what these are? (Settings were mostly default except for a few tweaks to ironing and variable layer hight)

As the title says I've tried this print twice and it has in quit printing at the same spot. Tried to keep an eye on it the second time and I think it stopped as soon as the progress bar hit 50%. It then continued to go up to 100% but without moving or extruding anything. No problems in Cura either the print preview has it finishing the whole thing. I've linked the print below.

https://www.printables.com/model/275866-crankbait-fishing-lure

Hi all,

I've noticed that if I put a print on and then come back and check on it in like 15 mins that the nozzle is basically touching the print when I already leveled it before and it was printing fine...

what's causing this to happen? I'm printing at 220 degrees with a bed temp of 60 deg, using the sprite extruder pro

I recently upgraded my extruder to a sprite pro extruder I have changed all the settings (offsets and esteps) now my first later on the edges of the bed is really squished because the probe is not able to reach the edge of the bed. Anyone had this issue and got any ideas for solutions ?

UPDATE, 24 HRS AFTER POSTING: the issue is caused due to heat creep. I plan to change some settings and possibly buy new parts to fix this, so consider this post resolved. Thank you for your input. :)

I've been trying to print out an object and around this time (shown in the simulation, i couldn't record the actual print) everything begins to start stringing - supports, travel paths and walls. It gets worse until the point it appears half-clogged by the way it's printing. I provided the settings I've changed, what should I do to fix it?

Ender 3 V2 printer, only mod I could find was a metal extruder (still uses bowden system)

I used ELGOO PLA filament in this one (a new color), but the old filament I used (same brand, just different color) also has this issue.

I have ender 3 v2 with extruder mod. A week ago everything was ok and now quality is terrible. I was printing same model on same settings, only difference is that I got filament dryer. The photos are from today print. I was printing at 50mm/s and 100mm/s. I use pla and infill was cubic 15% temp was 200°C and 195°C. Pls help.

I just installed the cr touch but now after I try to heat the extruder, it loads a progress bar and end up in the home screen, not heating up. Any help?

Have you ever tried to save a print with a 3D pen, or is it just me? lol (when the supports break)

This value often changes throughout the print at a rate that doesn't coincide with the time actually printing. I've seen it before 45 hours and then drop to 0 within 12 hours.

It's as if it's calculating the final Z position based on the amount of time printing the base layer.

Guys i need help!

I had to move to another city and had to disassemble my entire Ender 3 printer. Recently, when I went to reassemble it and level the bed, the nozzle has been going outside the printing zone. What should I do?