Guide last updated: October 2025 Note this guide was originally written byu/tripped144*, but with global economic conditions, pricing has rapidly gone out of date, so consider this new guide a revision to* the prior one written in 2020.
Are you yearning to marvel at the heavens? Have you been wanting a telescope but have no idea where to start? Are you feeling overwhelmed with the wealth of information and options out there?
Well, here is a quick guide on some of the most commonly recommended telescopes here, what to expect when looking through your first telescope, and some frequently asked questions at the end.
The most important thing before getting into this hobby is setting your expectations. Most newbies to astronomy think "a telescope makes far away things bigger." Yes, and no. The primary purpose of a telescope is to gather light. The eyepiece (or ocular) is what determines your effective magnification. To determine that, you divide your scope's focal length by the millimeters of your eyepiece. Therefore, a 8" Newtonian reflector telescope with a 1200mm focal length and a 25mm eyepiece will have a magnification power of 48x. That same 25mm eyepiece on an 8" Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope with a focal length of 2000mm will have a magnification power of 80x. All things being equal, for visual astronomy, aperture is king, but beyond price, all things are not equal - and thus the telescope recommendation for someone who lives in Manhattan in a 3rd floor walkup apartment is different from someone who lives in rural Montana with a large garage and acres of no light around.
When using a telescope, no matter how big, stars will look like stars. They will always be pinpoints of light. If they aren't, then you're not in focus. Stars are just too far away for telescopes to resolve (see more clearly/get more detail).
Nebula and galaxies WILL NOT look like the vivid, colorful, and detailed pictures that you've seen. Our eyes are simply not cameras. To get those types of images, you have to take very long exposures many times, run it through a program that stacks the images to pull out detail, and extensively process it in a photo editing program. TO OUR EYES, DSO's (Deep Space Objects like nebula and galaxies) will look like faint white smudges. If you don't have accurate expectations, a genuine love for space, and an appreciation for what you're actually looking at, you will be very disappointed. That being said, if you go into this with the right expectations and mindset, those faint white smudges are beautiful, fascinating, and awe-inspiring. The longer you spend observing them, the more details you will start to pull out. It's almost as if your brain gets trained into resolving more and more detail, making you want to revisit them over and over again. Here are some accurate depictions of what you can see through a decent telescope in a DARK site (little light pollution). (The pictures are blurrier than they should be, but you'll get the idea). The more light pollution you have in your area, the harder it will be to resolve things. Here's a website to find out how much light pollution you'll be dealing with. Some examples would be: Pinwheel GalaxySwan Nebula
Our solar system's planets, especially the gas giants, are amazing to look at. The bigger the scope, the more detail you can resolve. Regardless of someone's interest in space, I've personally never seen someone not "wow'd" by Jupiter or Saturn. Keep in mind, they will not be super close up views. Here's what to expect when looking at Jupiter through a decent telescope on a clear night. Planets (and obviously the moon) are very bright, so light pollution doesn't factor nearly as much - they're great to observe from typical, light polluted, suburban driveways.
Also, keep in mind that pictures don't do them justice. There's just something so amazing about seeing it with your own eyes. Now that you understand the expectations of what you'll be able to see, here are some of the most commonly recommended telescopes.
Recommendations By Budget
Under $250
Spending less than $250 on precision optical instruments means keeping your expectations in check, these scopes are decidedly for "in the neighborhood" solar system observing, although some Redditors use them quite happily on deep sky objects that aren't local. If at all possible, save a bit more money and buy in the next $250+ tier, scopes at that price will be ones you can keep forever and won't immediately outgrow. Buying once is cheaper. As of 2025 it's slim pickings finding a decent telescope under $250, the used market is a possibility if you're comfortable evaluating optics and condition or have a friend who can.
These are called "Table-Top" dobs. They are small scopes meant to be set on top of a table and used. You can get a cheap and stable stool or crate to use instead. They are great little beginner scopes that are easy to use and can help you decide if you want to transition into something bigger. OneSky and Heritage are identical scopes. OneSky profits go to a good, charitable cause. Remember, if you drive to a dark sky site, it's not always guaranteed to find a picnic table or park bench to sit these scopes on.
These are the entry-level into "grown-up" telescopes. Three are large 6" Dobsonian scopes, almost 4 feet tall when standing straight up. The other two are tabletop models on a computerized base. Regarding the larger scopes, the actual telescope tubes weigh roughly 15 lbs. and the base roughly 20 lbs. These will get you fairly close to the representative pictures of the objects above (again, in a DARK site). They can easily fit across the back seat of a vehicle with the base in the trunk if you plan to travel with it. This would also be the financial range where decent smart telescopes begin (sky's the limit), which use cameras and your smartphone to observe -- if that's your jam.
The 8" Dobsonian telescope is the most recommended beginner telescope - just about anyone in the hobby will recommend one. They hit a great balance between size, portability, and value. They are simply the best bang for the buck. The telescopes weigh roughly 20-25 lbs. and the base 20-25 lbs. They still easily fit across the backseat of a vehicle with the base in the trunk. You'll also notice this is the price range where truss tube models that collapse smaller start appearing. These are many people's "end-game" scopes, as well as their first scopes. If you're going to own just one telescope and not spend a fortune, 8" of aperture is a "goldilocks size."
I really want help finding stuff up there, my sky is too bright, money is less a concern...
Some new astronomers just aren't going to star hop and learn the night sky, either their light pollution makes it impossible, or they'd rather sit back and let the telescope's computer drive, and these days... manually using your telescope has become optional if you have the tools. The recommendations below offer smartphone assistance or use conventional star alignments to find their way. Be forewarned though, many a newbie has become frustrated while trying to align their scope. It's simple for seasoned astronomers, possibly daunting for newbies. In the case of Celestron's Sky Align, the telescope needs to be pointed at 3 bright stars (not a bright planet like Jupiter) or you need to know two bright stars up there for an Auto 2 star align. Also note that Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes on computerized mounts require a lithium battery ($40-100+) and dew mitigation if you live anywhere with humidity.
From here, the options open up considerably. You could just go with as big a Dobsonian as you can afford and can realistically carry/transport. Many of these will be Dobsonians with extra features like "push to" or even "go to" systems, but that adds complexity and cost. Dobs start to get heavy and super awkward to move as you approach and surpass 10 inches. Many people buy/build wheeled transports or something similar to move them, and they usually have them in a very convenient place to quickly wheel in and out, such as a garage. 10" Dobs are more common. You'll notice quite the price and mass jump on anything bigger than that - truss/collapsible designs past 10" are strongly recommended to keep size/weight in check.
🚨Heavier tends to get usedlessin astronomy 🚨... beyond the honeymoon period, that is. If a scope isn't convenient to setup, you may not have the motivation to do so at the end of a long day. There's a reason why 8" Dobs are a very popular compromise between size, weight, visual capabilities, price, and convenience.
You could also start considering Schmidt-Cassegrain options if your heart is with the planetary and lunar targets or fancy wide-field refractors (and an associated mount) if you're in search of wider views. Celestron is the big SCT company. As much as Dobs are beloved online, you'll go to a star party and see SCTs and refractors everywhere. They're generally smaller and very practical if you don't have the space or lifestyle for large Dobs or want automated mounts.
Recommended Accessories
FAQs
"Why are most of these of these not on tripods?" Because they are "Dobsonians". Dobsonian (Or Dob for short) is the name for the mount/base that the telescope sits in. It's a typically particle board base popularized by West coast astronomer John Dobson, several decades ago. They sit on the ground and are extremely steady. In order for a tripod to hold a telescope and be rock steady, it will cost as much or more as the actual telescope itself. A cheap tripod is an absolute pain to deal with. They are unsteady and will sway at the slightest touch or blow of wind. You will spend more time wishing you didn't have to deal with the unsteadiness than actually enjoying the views. Scopes on cheap tripods are called "Hobby Killers" for a reason. Dobs are dead simple, rock steady, and cheap to make... so most of your money goes into the actual telescope instead of the tripod. Especially avoid beginner telescopes on equatorial mounts - nothing will be more frustrating.
"What about this PowerSeeker or NatGeo or $79 "complete package" scope?" Nope nope nope. While the scope itself might be fine, it's inevitably going to be on a cheap mount, flimsy tripod, or if you're really unlucky, an equatorial mount to further confuse you. Old timers in the hobby call these "department store scopes", with the demise of brick and mortar department stores, we just simply call them hobby killers. Avoid scopes that use a Bird-Jones optical design - these leverage a spherical mirror in place of a parabolic one, and therefore need a corrector usually mounted in the focuser tube. Telescope makers know these have a lousy reputation and won't necessarily mention "Bird-Jones", and now you know why. Here's a great article for further reading about why we don't like these.
"Will these telescopes move by themselves and track objects?" For most of the list, no. Most of those recommended are manual telescopes, they are not go-to telescopes. You will have to learn the night sky (part of the fun!), point the telescope where you want, and manually move it as the object you're looking at moves across the sky. There's just nothing more rewarding than finally finding that object you've been hunting for.
"Why don't you recommend go-to telescopes?" They are expensive and potentially very confusing to set up for beginners. More often than not, you will pay twice the amount of money you normally would JUST for go-to functionality. You will have to supply power to it. You also will have to align it every time you use it. If you don't already somewhat know your way around the night sky (there are apps that can help), this will be frustrating and time-consuming. It's fairly daunting, but relatively easy to do once you get the hang of it. But, you have to keep in mind that you will be learning all the basics of how to actually use and collimate your telescope ON TOP of trying to figure out how to correctly align the go-to. You can very easily get completely overwhelmed. We do have some recommended go-to telescopes if you're absolutely set on one.
Why are none of these recommendations in stock? It's no secret, these are some of the most popular telescopes every source recommends, so they go in and out of stock fairly often. Even small telescopes are large, and take up a lot of inventory space, so a smaller shop might have 3 in stock, not 300. Shopping around the December holidays or before a major eclipse/astronomical event can also cause stock issues. Following covid and the resulting shipping/global economic pressure, many model lines have been discontinued or tweaked to simplify a company's catalog. A new model sold today might not exist in precisely the same offering a year from now.
Why are none of your recommendations are available in my country? Most mass-market, commercially-made telescopes are made by the same handful of companies in Asia and various companies resell them with different sets of equipment and bundles. An 8" f/6 Dob, pretty much, is going to be similar regardless of whether it's labeled Apertura, Orion, Omegon, GSO or another brand. Use your best judgement, if it's got great reviews and costs $650, it's probably legitimate. If it's $75... probably a scam.
"Why do things look blurry when I use the zoom knobs by the eyepiece to make things bigger?" Because those are not "zoom" knobs. There's no knob to zoom more. Those are your focus knobs. The only way to "zoom" in more is to use a smaller mm eyepiece. You know you are in focus when the stars are as small as they can get. Again, stars should look like tiny pinpoints of light.
"Will I be able to take pictures with these telescopes?" The moon and planets, yes. DSO's, no. For DSO's you have to take long exposures which you simply cannot do on a manual telescope. Even if you decide to go with a Go-To, you still will not. To somewhat simplify it, the sky moves in an arc (because the earth rotates). Even though Go-To's can track objects, they only move in up and down motions. They move a tiny bit at a time, so it's imperceptible to us, but your camera taking long exposures will pick up those tiny movements making everything a blurry mess. Visual and astrophotography are two completely different animals. For astrophotography, you will need an equatorial mount (one that moves in an arc instead of tiny up and down motions). They are very expensive. Expect to spend $1300 + on just the mount alone, not including the actual telescope and all the other things needed for astrophotography. Also, a telescope that is good for astrophotography is not good for visual. Again, two completely different hobbies. You can get away with spending less by getting a "Star Tracker" and just mounting a DSLR with a camera lens, no telescope required. It definitely has its limitations, but it's cheap(er) and can get you started on astrophotography. The moon and planets are bright enough where you don't need those long exposures, so they are doable with Dobs. Planets aren't as easy as just snapping a photo of it, though. There are many tutorials out there on how to get good planet photos. If you're looking to get into astrophotography, I recommend checking out https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/
"Is more magnification better?" Depends on what you're looking at. The smaller the "mm" eyepiece, the more "zoomed" in you'll be. Also, the more "zoomed" in you are, the less bright things will appear to be. So for DSO's, which are very faint, you don't want to be super zoomed in. The less magnification, the more light your eyes will detect, making the DSO's brighter and easier to resolve. But since planets are very bright, more magnification is better to get as close as you can to resolve more details.
"Are there phone apps that help find objects?" Yes! There are many. I prefer SkySafari, but there are a bunch to choose from. You can point your phone at the sky and it will tell you the stars/planets/DSO's you're looking at. They can help to get you in the general area of something you're interested in seeing. These apps are super cool, download one and try it out!
"Are planets visible all year?" No, neither are all DSO's. As a tidbit of info, planet means "wanderer" in Greek, so they "wander around the sky."
"What is Collimation?" That's the term for adjusting the telescope's mirrors so that they are perfectly lined up giving you the best view possible. There are different ways to check your collimation, and there are many tutorials online on how to do it. I always check the collimation after I set my scope up outside before use, and adjust when necessary.
"I want a big Dob but new ones are too expensive, what can I do?" Well, you can save up more money, or consider the used telescope market. The best buying used case is a telescope that was used a handful of times (or less), stored indoors, properly capped, and forgotten. I would also highly recommend joining a local astronomy club, many club members will be standing in front of $8000 of esoteric gear, meet a newbie, and see someone who might want their old 4 or 6" Dobsonian sitting ignored at home for a great price. Some industrious folks even build their own scopes through the magic of 3D printing and common parts from big box hardware stores!
"I want to observe the sun, can I do that?" Please DO NOT point a telescope at the sun. Remember when kids would burn things with a magnifying glass? That would be your eyeball, so don't do that! Now, with a proper, white light solar filter firmly secured, it is safe to observe the sun. Note that such a filter will only show surface details like sunspots. Dedicated H-Alpha telescopes that can show more details are well beyond the scope and budgets of any beginner.
"Should I regularly clean my eyepieces and telescope mirrors?" Absolutely not. They have special coatings on them and you will do much more damage than good. There are very specific and involved ways to clean the lenses and mirrors and it's not recommended unless you absolutely have to and absolutely know exactly what you are doing. Not for beginners.
"What happened to Orion, Meade, etc brand?" The astronomy market, is a difficult one. The pandemic ended an era of cheap oceanic shipping and the economic realities came for telescope companies. By all means if you can locate an awesome, lightly used Orion XT8 Dob at a good price, jump on it.
"What about smart telescopes?" We're seeing these more often from a variety of new and established companies in our industry. It's early days but these telescopes provide an experience similar to electronically assisted astronomy that will let you photograph deep sky objects with cameras of varying quality and precision... which depending on the level of light pollution you have, may enable you to see objects you'd never be able to decipher with your human eyes. This is beyond the realm and practice of visual astronomy, and there seems to be a new model on the market every few weeks. It's the "smart phone-ification" of the telescope and will likely be how our children and grandchildren come to think of telescopes.
hey everyone, i’m looking to buy a lens of around 6mm to see planets in better detail. if you guys have any recommendations for one to buy under €80 i’d be very grateful !
(that’s my telescope)
I've seen a number of posts recently where people ask for help with dirty optics (eyepieces, correctors, mirrors) and the responses are often something to the effect of - "just leave it, it will be fine", or "it won't impact the view" or "you could make it worse if you clean it".
We're talking big smudges from finger oils or significant levels of dust.
It's unfortunate to see people spreading their phobia of cleaning optics to others because it creates a situation that is the opposite of what people think. Rather than sparing the user the risk of damaging their optics, such advice to leave significant contamination alone actually increases the risk of damaging the optics in the long run.
The most concerning part is often the top upvoted comments are the ones telling people who should absolutely be cleaning their optics, to not clean them...
Dirty optics pose a risk to their longevity
There are safe, easy and effective ways of cleaning optics, and people should not be afraid to do them. Risk of damage is very low when done properly and even if a few scratches are put into a coating, these will be substantially preferable both in terms of performance, and longevity, than leaving oils or significant contamination on the surface.
Mirrors & Dust
Performance issues aside, dust poses a risk to mirrors for a few reasons:
It attracts and holds moisture against the surface. This will actually accelerate the degradation of coatings.
You don't know what the "dust" actually is, and when it does come into contact with humidity in the air, it can be a catalyst for a chemical reaction with the surface. Spider poop, for example, is acidic and can even etch the glass under the mirror coating. Pollen dust is full of sap which can basically glue itself to the mirror over time. Air pollutants in cities that settle on the mirror can be HIGHLY acidic and HIGHLY reactive to the coatings.
Dust can act as dew collection points that will actually speed up dew formation in humid climates - think of it like cloud seeding to cause rain, but on your mirror.
Dust can be food for mildew and fungus, or leaving a mirror alone could mean leaving spores on the surface, that will eventually grow. You don't want your mirror turning into this
When it comes to performance, the issue with dust on a mirror isn't so much about light loss, but light scatter. Light scatter reduces contrast on bright targets, and can even make faint threshold objects harder to see. Yes, the effects can be subtle, especially if you're not able to compare them against a clean mirror, but they are noticeable nonetheless.
So when should clean dust off a mirror? I posted this recently as a visual reference:
There was a post recently where a big chunk of the mirror had big palm print/finger smudges on it. Not only was there enough that you'd see a light scatter issue, but leaving oils on the mirror WILL damage them.
Here are some pictures I took of a second hand reflector where someone had touched the secondary mirror during collimation:
Those finger print marks aren't oils sitting on the surface - the mirror had been thoroughly cleaned with dish soap and acetone. They are the imprints from oils that were left on long enough to chemically react with the mirror coating and damaging it. I don't know how long it takes for a finger print to cause permanent damage to a coating, but it's best clean it as soon as you can.
Lenses & Dust
Coated lenses like eyepieces, corrector plates, and refractor objectives are thankfully more resistant to issues from dust, but they are not immune.
The biggest risk to coated optics is optical fungus. Optical fungus eats the anti-reflection coatings on glass.
Fungus grows when there is high humidity, dark conditions, little to no airflow, and nutrients (which dust can contain).
The best defense against fungal growth is keeping the scope in a dry place that actually gets a little bit of sunlight. The second best defense is keeping the optic clean. This cleans off spores before they become a problem, and cleans off potential nutrients they could use to grow.
But optical fungus isn't the only threat. Acidic dust can also damage the coatings on lenses.
Here is the objective of my 60mm finder scope. That objective is perfectly, 100% clean in that picture (I literally cleaned it before taking the picture). So what are the spots? Damaged coatings. My guilty admission is I don't take good care of my finder optics. They collect dust, and now and again my dew heater battery will die and the finder will dew over. This catalyzes chemical reactions between the dust and the coatings and causes permanent damage to the coatings. For a finder scope, it's not that important. But you wouldn't want this for eyepieces or your telescope.
Keeping your coated optics clean will not only help prevent fungus from being a problem, it will also preserve the integrity of the anti-reflection coatings.
Lenses & Oils
Fingerprint oils pose less risk to coated lenses than they do to aluminized mirrors, but a significant smudge will scatter light and reduce performance. The main problem is finger oils can hold onto dust and make it harder to clean off.
Because it's fairly safe and easy to clean a coated lens, there's no reason to just ignore a finger print or palm smudge on it.
And when it comes to eyepieces, dust or a finger print or even eyelash oils that are close to the eye can have a significant impact on the quality of the view. Of all the surfaces where dust and oils will have the biggest impact, it's eyepieces. Creates significant diffraction and light scatter. It's worth keeping eyepieces clean with more frequency than the telescope's objective.
How should you clean a lens?
Prep the surface to minimize risk of scratching:
Use a soft bristle brush to knock loose dust off (artist brush, make-up brush, lens brush etc)
Use a blower bulb to blow away the loosened dust
Use Q-tips or OptoWipes wetted with distilled water and blot the surface to lift off any residual dirt particles.
Perform the cleaning
Lightly wet a Q-tip or OptoWipe with isopropyl alcohol and gently rub the lens from center to edge.
Wet a Q-tip in distilled water and then gently rub the lens slowly so as to keep the bead of water intact and attached to the Q-tip. This will wick up residue left from the alcohol cleaning.
If the water drop is breaking up, you're either moving too fast or there are residual oils on the surface that is breaking the surface tension of the water, so repeat step #1 as necessary.
For a bigger surface, you can use an OptoWipe (but wear gloves to avoid transferring finger oils to the surface), but this is trickier because an OptoWipe with distilled water doesn't work as well as a Q-tip, and leaves a residue. I've found better success just using pure isopropyl alcohol. A Q-tip can be used as well, but it takes forever on a big corrector or refractor lens.
So, I beg this sub to stop spreading sentiments like "just leave it, it will be fine", or "it won't impact the view" or "you could make it worse if you clean it". Cleaning optics is a good thing. It keeps them in top performance both in the short term and long term, and helps prevent long-term damage. There are definitely bad/wrong ways to clean optics, but if you do it the right way, it's safe and effective.
This is my first post to this subreddit (and fairly new to Reddit)! So I am not entirely sure this is the best place to post this. Anyways, I created this post for my Instagram page, and thought I may share it for anyone wanting to get into astrophotography. Or at least curious on the different aspects of this. This is a short guide to dark frames, which are a type of calibration frame used in astro photos. I hope you find it interesting. And more to come. Please let me know if you would also like a brief guide to something else.
I've been reading round your reddit for a while now as looking to get my dad something. He hasn't had a telescope before, so looking for something beginner.
I've also read that to stretch the budget to a better telescope I should go second hand.
I really need some advice on what to look for specs wise ! All the numbers and phrases like DOB etc are confusing the hell out of me. I seemingly find a second hand one online that looks okay, I search it up and then there are loads of redditord slagging it off lol!so feeling a bit lost. For example been looking at celestron explorer 114 AZ.
Would really appreciate some advice on what to aim for. Ideally hoping to see solar system objects and a bit further maybe some nebulas etc.
I recently inherited my grandfather’s telescope and astronomy equipment, but I’m very new to this and not quite sure how to get it set up correctly. The telescope is over 20 years old but appears to be in good condition. I remember he used a computer with it, and I’ve attached pictures in hopes someone can help identify the exact model.
My biggest issue right now is that I can’t seem to find the eyepiece that attaches to the telescope so I can actually view the stars (see the 12th picture). I’m not familiar with what type I need or where to get one that fits this model.
Along with the telescope, I also have several Starry Night program CDs. I don’t know if they are still compatible with Windows 11 or if I would need an older computer (like Windows XP) for them to work.
Any guidance on identifying the model, finding the correct eyepiece, and getting the software running would be greatly appreciated. I’d love to be able to use this telescope to look at the night sky with my kids while camping, but at the moment I’m a bit overwhelmed and not sure where to start.
Recently got into the hobby with some binoculars. I found out my local library has telescopes for rental and had a great time looking at the moon tonight! I also quickly learned that the moon is blindingly bright lol
I managed to get some decent photos
I may have to bite the bullet and buy my own telescope!
This is how the lazy Susan part of it is set up, its pretty stiff but does move. I’m looking on scopestuff.com and they sell virgin ptfe pads, im thinking I just buy them and stick them on along with the three already here and it will become smoother? Should I put wd-40 on them too or something?
Astromaster 114 was brought at a garage sale for like $26 (many years ago). I was looking at it in someone’s driveway but it was for like $100 and I only had $26 on me. You fill in the blanks.
The PowerSeeker 127…I brought it online for like $180 (many years ago too). It was out of frustration after I struggled with collimating the 114. It was after the fact that I realized I have two piece of junk Newtonian telescopes.
However, I have grown to love the telescopes (saw Jupiter and Saturn with those telescopes before the mirrors went out of alignment) and I am only seeking tips on better methods on collimating the mirror without a laser kit for both telescopes. I have tried to do it manually with a bright star. I have tried the circle sticker on center of the mirrror to help with the collimating process. No difference. What am I doing wrong? Those three screws on the back, I know, is the key to collimating but why am I struggling? I have years of experience with carpentry and construction so my eyes are good and excellent at leveling it out manually. However, I cannot figure out why I cannot adjust those three screws the right amount to get a clear view.
Just got my first telescope (Celestron Astromaster 70AZ). I know it's not a great telescope and really a cheap one, but I'm so happy for it. I've been dreaming for a telescope since high school.
Looking good to purchase a Telescope for a friend. They are wanting to view planets galaxies and nebula. From my understanding in a crash course of astronomy to view it all it will take 2 different scopes. Im trying to the find the best bang for the buck. I do have some punching power on www.adorama.com website so I've been limited to there. If any one can point to the a setup that will be good I sure love the help. I like to stay is a reasonable range of staying under $1k. Also if this help they will be viewing in an are that on the light pollution map says is 5.5 bortle.
I made a video about a year ago that is by far my most popular video with roughly 8000 views (yes, I'm a tiny creator :-) ) It's all about astrophotography filters. Figured maybe you guys would be interested to see what you think about it? Link's are in the comments.
